Name that noise!

[Jayce]

Let's play a game. It's called name that noise.

Car: 2001 Hyundai Elantra.

Situation: When making R or L turns of significant turning radius (i.e. parking lots) I hear a TAP TAP TAP TAP TAP sound. The sharper the turn, the more profound it is.

Problem:

Estimated Cost:

 

[NoNameNY]

Do you feel it in the wheel? Could be cv shaft

 

[Abstract Hero]

Either that or the power steering pump drying out (low fluid) but it would depend on the speed of the tapping and possibly increased driving difficulty but not always.

 

[skitzo385]

Can you tell where the noise is coming from? Under the hood or down around the tires?

 

[C0RR0SIVE]

The car is front wheel drive, and "taping" or "clicking" like noises that come from the front, while in turns, means bad CV joints. These are what enable your front tires to pull your car along, while being able to steer it.

Eventually the noise will happen all the time, even when going straight, once it reaches the breaking point, you loose a half shaft. If you have some mechanical experience, carefully check the boots on these half shafts, where your CV joints are to see if they are torn, or if grease has slung out.

Typical cost, $60 for an entirely new half shaft, after you return the old half shafts, then you have one, to two hours of labor for one half shaft.
Most shops can repair the joint, but it could take longer repairing it, and costing more in the end.

It could be other things, but I highly doubt the PS Pump it self, they usually make more of a whine when your steering really far, and it can get even worse when low on fluid.

Worst case, which, I haven't seen before, is a bad wheel bearing, the only time I have ever dealt with those, is when they make a grinding noise.

 

[Jayce]

The noise is down at the tires. The power steering fluid level is fine. I check all fluids regularly when I change my oil. The tightness/looseness of the power steering in particular has not changed at all since I got the car. It still reacts fine and I can manuver into tight spaces without any issue at all. It's simply the sound that I hear that doesn't seem right.

I recently changed my front brakes. The issue was happening before I changed my brakes, so while I was in the wheel wells I looked around and did not see anything at all that would seem like it was out of place. Everything visually appeared fine. The issue was not better or worse after changing the brakes and putting the wheels back on the car.

For what it's worth, I use a torque wrench when I put the lug nuts on, and it is torqued to spec as per Hyundai's recommendations.

EDIT - Corrosive - just saw your post (we posted at same time). Sounds like a good thought about that... glad to know it won't suck my wallet dry either. I'll do some more digging regarding that topic so I can take the wheel off and take a look around. I wonder if I can squeak by like this until September. Then I can lump in inspection with this repair. Unless when I take a look that it looks like something I could do myself. While I'm not an expert mechanic, I love working on cars. I just hate to start a repair that I cannot finish since I rely fully on a single car for work. If I had two cars and I could let one out of service for a while as I continue to figure out what to do, it'd be a different story. Maybe some day when I hit that six figure job and can afford a pair of cars.

EDIT II - I love the ****ing internet: How to Replace a CV Joint in a Hyundai Elantra | eHow.com

 

[C0RR0SIVE]

It isn't hard, but it also depends upon the car on how hard it is to replace, as you have to break the wheel hub loose from the shaft.

As long as you have a torque wrench, a beefy one, time, and know its deff the half shaft, this is a good quick project, just, always expect the un-expected.

Also, there is one on each side, so you need to find the one that is doing it. BTW, the prices I said, are for my area using autozone.com, they can vary widely, with out the original half shaft being returned, its a $130 part.


EDIT: One thing I noticed that site didn't list, is that you should also, if replacing a half shaft, purchase a new wheel nut to tighten the half shaft and hub together, the high torque figure causes damage to the nut and weakens it when being broke loose.

One last thing that I personally think EVERYONE should own if they like attempting repairs, is to grab a Haynes manual from there auto parts stores for there car. The book costs $15-$30 depending on your car, but it is great at giving all the specs and procedures for just about everything, the pictures aren't always the best, but, it gives you a great idea when dealing with the car.

 

[Jayce]

Hm... I wonder how I can determine which one it is. Granted, it does it equally when turning both left and right, but I suppose that could still be secluded to only one side. Do you have any idea how I could somehow to an at-home test and figure it out?

Good thought on the manual. I had one for my Grand Am, which I rarely used since the engine for that car was so big it was impossible to work on. Not that it had a high output V8, but it had a large 6 cylinder for that particular year, which made it nearly impossible to work on. I often heard mechanics gripe about it after I would pick up the car.

The torque wrench I have varies from 20ft-lb to upwards of 180ft-lb's I think... so I would assume that would do the job. I'll have to do some more reading on this repair and begin saving some money. Funds are tight right now, but I would think I could continue driving it as is for a LITTLE while longer... after all it's survived the last 6 months okay.

 

[Slaymate]

It makes the clicking sound when you turn either way. Does the clicking also shift to the side your turning? As in your turning right does the clicking come from the right tire or the left tire. And when your turning left does the clicking come from the left or right tire. If the clicking is always coming from the same side then that CV Joint is bad. If the clicking is coming from both sides then both CV Joints are bad.

 

[Jayce]

Well it's hard to say where it "shifts" to. I know it clicks going both sides. I think I notice it prominently on the left side, but I'm not sure if that's just because it's on the driver side and closer for me to hear it or what... I'll go to a parking lot sometime soon and test it to get a better idea.