Question about flush/refill on my loop...

[cq842000]

If you've got a metal case, then you could also try burning/melting the epoxy off. My bet is it's got a lower burn/melt point than a metal res/case lol. I wouldn't even think you'd need a blowtorch, maybe just a jet lighter would do.

WAIT!!! Epoxy has no melting point! You'll warp the case and scorch the paint off before you melt the epoxy. It can burn or become discolored and brittle at temperatures over 600 degrees Fahrenheit, but it simply wont melt as it was designed not to.

 

[C0RR0SIVE]

I know the paint will be ruined, but, I plan on repainting it anyways as I screwed up on the first paint job. The metal warping, I aint to worried about honestly, as long as it isn't insane warpage, even if it doesn't melt, and the epoxy becomes brittle, at that point, it should chip apart.

 

[cq842000]

I know the paint will be ruined, but, I plan on repainting it anyways as I screwed up on the first paint job. The metal warping, I aint to worried about honestly, as long as it isn't insane warpage, even if it doesn't melt, and the epoxy becomes brittle, at that point, it should chip apart.

Just trying to help man.

 

[C0RR0SIVE]

I know, I just wanna get it to where I can clean these parts out and what not, even if the case is screwed in the end, I would like to have the radiator and pump off of it, I guess if it comes to it, I will cut the rad out, and use a grinder on the sheet metal and epoxy that are still on the rad till it's for the most part, gone. Just worried about screwing this rad as I paid $130 for it.

 

[cq842000]

Well as long as the heat isnt focused on the fins/channels, and the majority of contact stays on the outside cover of the radiator, it will be fine.

 

[S0ULphIRE]

^Agreed. Even at 600F, you're probably not going to warp the metal unless you apply it on the thin fins on the radiator. Or if you keep it constantly focused on a bit of metal