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Old 11-02-2005, 03:02 PM   #11 (permalink)
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that's not high, that's normal. it's not gonna make whole alot of difference..
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Old 11-02-2005, 06:11 PM   #12 (permalink)
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42 is on the higher end spectrum for just sitting in windows, but not dangerously high. I dont think that would be whats causing your game to reset then unles the bios threshold is set to low (like 60).
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Old 11-02-2005, 07:21 PM   #13 (permalink)
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How would i find out what my threashold is at? What section of bios should it be under?
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Old 11-02-2005, 07:38 PM   #14 (permalink)
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not all mainboards have this setting that's why I said maybe.
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Old 11-02-2005, 07:49 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I am just thinking outloud....maybe if you got a couple of cans of compressed air ( they are actually R-134a ) and opened up your pc and had someone help you , you know run the game AND at about the point where the pc would bomb start giving the heatsink blasts from the inverted can ( CAUTION WITH THE CAN INVERTED TETRAFLOUROMETHANE IS COMING OUT AND WILL FREEZE ANYTHIG ON CONTACT WEAR EYE PROTECTION ) THIS will super cool the heatsink. We use to do this with analog electronics equip. Be really carefull a tech in a computer lab I worked in froze the tip of his tongue with that stuff, i will not say any more about that , then he did dares, got frost bite.
this would prove if it was heat related, maybe the heatsink is not on all the way, use to see that all the time with socket 370 processors.
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Old 11-02-2005, 08:45 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I just took the heatsink off and put it on acording to the manual. While doing this i saw the Thermal Paste that was between the heatsink and CPU. I have no idea what it should look like but the middle of the paste was on the CPU and the outside was on the Heat sink. (It was put on in a square.) Im not sure if thats what it should look like or not. Im going to go test out my game, see if it crashes now i put the heatsink on myself.

It got up to 57 degrees celcius before i desided to stop. I guess that wasnt it.
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Old 11-02-2005, 11:07 PM   #17 (permalink)
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So it does sound like a heating issue, 57 in the BIOS is wrong definitely. Your best bet regarding the thermal paste is to scrape off the thermal paste of the processor and the heatsink, put on new paste and reseat it.

Now I am not 100% good when it comes to thermal paste and taking it off so I'm hoping someone will build on to this. What would you use to scrape it off (because you dont want static electricity or any damage to the heatsink or cpu), and how do you ensure the thermal paste is on as best as it can be (ie even spread, minimal bubbles.
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Old 11-03-2005, 12:09 AM   #18 (permalink)
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The problem I think is your Power Supply (PSU)
You said you have a 420Watt PSU?
Wattage means virtually nothing, you can have a 600Watt PSU with horrible ratings.
What are the ratings on your PSU?
ie, your hold up time, or output +3.3V@20A, +5V@30A, +12V@18A, -5V@18A, -12V@0.5A, +5VSB@0.8A
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Old 11-03-2005, 01:08 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Im not too sure what the ratings are on my PSU. I got it with my case and the website only says 420watt ATX. http://www.xpcgear.com/mutantxcase.html
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Old 11-04-2005, 05:46 AM   #20 (permalink)
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It's easy to find out your ratings. The ratings should be on the side, top, or bottom of your Power supply, a big sticker with the info on it. All PSU have that big sticker on the side with the ratings.

Here's a pic

http://www.ocmodshop.com/enermaxcs5866/PSU8.jpg

http://images.gruntville.com/images/...oseup_Side.jpg

What is your amps on the 12V Rail?

For example:
1st pic: +12V@16A

A minimum PSU should have a minimum of +12V@18A and a 16ms hold-time

If you are getting a PSU for a system with a single high end video card than 28A-32A should give plenty of room

Midrange systems should shoot for 24A on the 12V rail

Really low-end, older or specialty systems can consider 18A on the 12V rail
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