Random Chit Chat

I am trying to find a shot of my poor old truck. I had started to repaint it wit the silver with black top and bottom like it was new. Accident stopped that an after putting new nose on it I just haven't finished it. One of these days....:trash:
Is that a Chevy 1500 Dan? I'll bet your 30ft trailer exceeds the tow rating of that truck. You mentioned a lot of things you did to upgrade the engine and the cooling system but what about the drivetrain, suspension and brakes?

I had a 30ft trailer that weighed in at 10,000lbs loaded. I originally towed it with a 1997 Suburban 2500 with a 454 engine. It could handle it but I felt it was working too hard so I traded that in on a 2005 Silverado 2500LT with a Duramax diesel engine and an Allison transmission. That thing was a real towing beast! I could pretty much just set the cruise control and it would effortlessly climb any grade I encountered. The temp gauge rarely went above normal on it and when it did it was barely noticeable.

Loved that truck but we got rid of the trailer last year so didn't need the truck any longer. Sold it and bought a 2013 Suburban 1500 with a 5.3L engine which is beefy enough since the most I'll tow with it is a 10Ft utility trailer. Got the Suburban just before the pandemic thing hit so have only driven it a few times.
 
AFAIK compression test is not only to determine the need to rebuild, but also loss of stock power. So I believe it could only tell an engine only lost power but still has some life in it to work without burning, smoking, leaking... etc.; i.e. a false alert to rebuild.


I could be wrong, however. Do all kinds of increased gaps in engine require a rebuild? I heard that even slight oil burning could be okay without an immediate rebuild. I personally rebuilt the engine because the head gasket leaked coolant only and to not remove the cyl. head so soon after. HG's are scarce now for this car and it has to be replace each time. It was not a complete overhaul, tho. I remember at least the guides were good and the chambers did not need machining.
 
So you're saying that my Ford Taurus is ugly? ;)

It's a 2003 and I drove it since 2008. It has a little over 102K miles on it. It had 83K when I bought it.

ALL YOU FORD OWNERS SPEAK UP!

 
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I get a slight lope at idle. Compression good but for one side between water and oil on the left bank. Loose water and oil. I know the valve seals are leaking. Let it sit for a bit and then touch the petal and I get puff of blue smoke. I don't get water in oil or oil in the water. That is weird for sure. They must both be leaking into the cylinder. Engine is really strong for to be tired. I will check the cylinders for out of round and scoring. I don't want to pull the whole motor out if I can help it. I don't think I can do it by myself. Can't lift it out by myself. Costs too much for it to be outsourced. Have to put up with it with just the heads. Will most likely outlast me anyway. Tough old truck!!
 
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Smart Guy, Its hot where you live. Interiors get over 150 degrees out in the sun. That kills internal fabrics. Mine was no difference. Deserts in Arizona do it too! Here it can but I park in the carport. Helps a lot!
 
Is that a Chevy 1500 Dan? I'll bet your 30ft (9.14 m) trailer exceeds the tow rating of that truck. You mentioned a lot of things you did to upgrade the engine and the cooling system but what about the drivetrain, suspension and brakes?

I had a 30ft (9.14 m) trailer that weighed in at 10,000lbs loaded. I originally towed it with a 1997 Suburban 2500 with a 454 engine. It could handle it but I felt it was working too hard, so I traded that in on a 2005 Silverado 2500LT with a Duramax diesel engine and an Allison transmission. That thing was a real towing beast! I could pretty much just set the cruise control and it would effortlessly climb any grade I encountered. The temp gauge rarely went above normal on it and when it did it was barely noticeable.

Loved that truck, but we got rid of the trailer last year so didn't need the truck any longer. Sold it and bought a 2013 Suburban 1500 with a 5.3L engine which is beefy enough since the most I'll tow with it is a 10Ft utility trailer. Got the Suburban just before the pandemic thing hit so have only driven it a few times.

Only thing I needed was a different transmission. I took out that bloody 700r4 and put a th475 in it. The rear end ratio was done and beef her driveshaft. It need all that anyway. My trailer is 6500 pds empty. they called it a lite hauler. Fleetwood don't make trailers anymore, but in 1994 they did,and loaded it was only about 1500 more pounds. The truck is supposed to be able to haul 8000 pounds. Added new shocks, (air shocks), And didn't need them. Truck stayed level with no bounce at all. Good hauler! I did 55 mph all the way up the rockies at about 150 temps on the transmission. it stayed in 3 gear the whole time. Rear-end ratio is 39's had 86s something, can't remember now.It needed spider shims but as i was already there, why not change.. Can't remember if i told you but the trailer is a 5th wheel. They ride so much better anyway. They also put more on the front axles than a rear puller. Did i miss anything? Speak up... Long live Chevys!! :dance:
 
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If it's the valve seals only, some engines can have those replaced with a special tool by removing the valve cover only if there's one. No need to remove the cyl. head. Hopefully that can be done for you too? AFAIK, if the oil is not lost much between changes and spark plugs don't get covered with deposits and oil, that little blue smoke does not hurt immediately. Personally I'd do the job, tho. AFAIK valve stem seals leak does not mix oil with coolant.


Let's wait for the Oracle to comment on that.
 
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