2000 Chevy Impala Cylinder Head Repair Log

The steel and rubber gasket is superior, as it allows the gasket surface to move with the heads and intake. The old cheaper plastic and rubber o-ring design didn't allow the rubber to move with them as they heated/cooled. That is what allowed the LIM gasket to fail, among improper time with coolant changes. But yes, the issue is present on just about all 60 degree GM engines made since the LATE 90's. They made the fix in ~2003ish.

My car, I have put maybe $1000 into it, in common wear/tear parts such as brakes, tires, lights, and so on, and only $150 in a part that isn't common to break, which was the front sway-bar. In the long run, I am still coming in cheaper than getting something reliable that still has a good body and frame, even with this repair, provided I don't go over budget, or get any surprises.
 
Yup, Brakes, tires and lights are a normal cost for ownership. I was referring to the cost of a couple LIM kits and your hours/days time. Plus the fixing warped or cracked head/s too
 
The first LIM repair was under my brother.

This repair, being head gasket, isn't taking but an extra 20 minutes in time, and is now gonna be cheaper than expected, don't know why everyone think's this type of repair costs so much... Maybe it's because they rather pay the $80-$130/hour of labor for a shop to do it.

Got notice from the machine shop that they will do both heads for $80 each, very cheap compared to the shop that I used to go to all the time that wanted $140 each.

LIM Gasket Set is only $60 + $30 bolts + 2 hours time.
Head Gasket Set is $180 (also contains the LIM gaskets) + $60 Head Bolts + $30 LIM Bolts + 6 hours of actual work time (which I don't count in cost because this is something I enjoy doing) + head repairs.
 
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Well, another three days off of work is here, and I am ready to start updating this thread.

Day 6:
Today I received the following items.
-Headgasket set (came SEVERAL days earlier than anticipated)
-Valve Stem Seals (If I knew the headgasket set would have came earlier than expected, I never would have ordered these separate and paid rush shipping on them... this new machine shop screwed me royally.)
-Head Bolt Set
-LIM Bolt Set
-Haynes Repair Manual - I still like having these around, even if I have online access, the real thing can't be beaten when working on a car IMO.
-Torque Angle Meter Gauge

Lifters SHOULD be here tomorrow, had to order 7 of them, the rest appear and SEEM to be in good shape.

Now, about this machine shop... I know a few members here are rather close to me, and I am going to go ahead and say this, do not, EVER, EVER take your heads down to (forgot the name, will update later). At first I was told $80/head for both machine work, AND pressure testing, as well as dye checking, and for two bolts to be extracted from the heads.

Somehow this turned into all 12 valves being "reworked", a critical support bracket being removed from the head, ME rush ordering valve steam seals (that was $60 blown...) as he refused to supply them, or let us know we needed them in advance for him to get done early.
In the end, he wanted $150/head for what he did... It has rather ****ed me off, and I am considering legal action as he did work he didn't confirm that I wanted done, (i can do valve work my self) and he tossed bolts that shouldn't have been removed from the head. He was informed to remove ONLY the bolts that was sheered off inside the head, and told to leave all brackets/bolts other than the exhaust stud bolts ALONE.

He also left a metric ****-ton of metal shavings inside the coolant passages, and god knows what the stuff is inside my intake/exhaust passages. Appears to be metal flake.

In the end, it would have been cheaper for me to drive to somerset over an hour and a half away, and have my regular machine shop do the work for me. Cost would have been the same, and all work would have been done the same day, AND they would have left the brackets/bolts alone. Oh, my regular shop also provides valve stem seals for "free". They include that in valve job costs, not as an "extra" since they must be replaced.

So right now, I am a little beyond ****ed, and this is the fourth time a recommendation from a family friend has screwed me. Next time I am recommended something from this fellow, I will kindly tell him to go shove his genitals into a porcupine, that his friends he recommends have all screwed me over the last 10 years.


Plans right now...
-Go to fastenal and see if I can find bolts to fit these heads where the brackets should be at...
-Contact a friend to see if he is willing to fabricate a few brackets fast and cheaply with-out being able to perform precise measurements. The bracket missing connects from the head to the throttle body... No way to to all this with-out the bracket... No way to install throttle body with-out the bracket wither... Measuring isn't possible.
-Find some bolts to act as exhaust flange studs, as the ones sent are the wrong size, and everyone lists that size for my heads.
-Clean the block surface
-Partially install the cylinder heads. I can only put the gasket on, and do the first step of installing the bolts for right now due to my breaker bar breaking the other day. I wonder what 350 pounds at about 6 foot from a center point would read in torque value...
-Contact my brother to get some of his specialty tools as the LIM can't be installed with-out them and I don't want to buy the stupid things, only ever used them on this one engine, they have no real purpose other than this engine IMO.
-Clean the heads
-Finish cleaning the intake manifolds...
-Paint the intake and valve covers - I was thinking about painting the intake black, and get a chrome like paint for the valve covers... What's everyones opinion? I don't really wanna do odd colors as I want a stock appearance.
-Contact GM about a special part that can't be found anywhere and is critical for engine operation, can't even get one from the junkyard as it's plastic, and very brittle even new.

Photo Album has been updated, and pictures are now in chronological order for the most part. Newest pictures at the bottom. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/...073741828.100000887370048&type=1&l=536c0a0b24

Figured I would give a little update..
Lifters and tools wont be in till later.

For now, enjoy the below pictures.

Rocker Arms during the first time I was in this engine at 150k miles, had no idea about Chem-Dip during this point in my life
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Rocker Arms at 200k miles for THIS repair.
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Rocker Arms after a complete cleaning with Chem-Dip for THIS repair.
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Day 7
Today I chased the threads in my block, and spent time cleaning it, took ages to get the thing clean enough to put the gasket down onto it. Also decided to grab some paint for my intake and valve covers. I decided on just a metalic black paint for both, and plan on sanding the wording down on the intake so that the 3400 pops out a bit.

I cleaned and painted the valve covers, the intake, also cleaned the lower intake up a bit, and spent some time cleaning the cylinders up a bit.

For anyone that is trying to find them, sometimes the studs for the exhaust manifold break off in the head, NO ONE lists the studs for this application and GM was of no help. I ended up getting Dorman 03411 for the studs and nuts. The threads are the same as the originals, but they are slightly different in the middle, but this doesn't matter for the 3400 GM v6 as the flange will sit over the middle of the studs. This part is made specifically for a FORD engine, but it works perfectly with mine as well.

So, remainder of my day at this point.

Install headgaskets and heads, soak the lifters, and call it a day. Tomorrow I will install the lifters, then the LIM gasket, push rods, and rocker arms, and possible the LIM it self.

I really like how the paint turned out, the 3400SFI will be sanded to a nice bright shine instead of having the paint on it.
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If you sand the 3400 your best bet would be to clear coat it after or it will start to get that nasty white crud aluminum gets, Looking good by the way.

Dauntae
 
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