What You've Just Bought!

[PP Mguire]

Inline caps IMO are not a crossover, only a pass filter in which it does have. The woofers are completely full range which is unacceptable. Besides that, the problem is where it's tuned. Considering I plan to put Klipsch speakers in them, it makes the most sense to put a 3 way inside each. I'm only 25 a piece into these so adding an extra 75 a piece to them will only make them that much better and such a cheap cost. Starting with a proper crossover and newer mid/high diaphragms.

 

[Joe C]

x-over design can get kinda complicated... you'll have to factor in the box design, the newer speakers and their specs along with the tube size and length for the bass reflex and the phiscal size of your speaker box. Here is a guide I looked at before I built my own speakers...
https://www.audioholics.com/diy-audio/building-a-do-it-yourself-loudspeaker-design/crossover-design

However, without proper analysis of the drivers in the intended cabinet it is a game of roulette

I looked into this when I wanted to upgrade my Fisher speakers and decided it was much easier to keep the original hardware, I just needed to install newer higher quality caps and add some insulation inside the cabinets to make a better listening experience. My Fisher speakers are very similar to yours in that they have the woofers wired direct, but the caps change voltages at different hertz so the woofers drop out at a certain range without the need for anything else. I see your specs state they can go down to 35hrtz which should make for some decent audio as they are, add a sub and I'm sure they will kick it out.
Without a doubt those caps are dried out, so as I stated just upgrade those to some better quality caps and you'll be able to tell the difference...Just give that a shot before you spend a bunch of cash trying something that is unknown first.

 

[PP Mguire]

x-over design can get kinda complicated... you'll have to factor in the box design, the newer speakers and their specs along with the tube size and length for the bass reflex and the phiscal size of your speaker box. Here is a guide I looked at before I built my own speakers...
https://www.audioholics.com/diy-audio/building-a-do-it-yourself-loudspeaker-design/crossover-design

Oh I'm not making one, I'm buying an assembled 3 way.
My first option is this, but they don't have rated what the crossover frequencies are.
https://www.simplyspeakers.com/speaker-crossover-3-way-a-1307.html

My second option is cheaper but made for cars and I'd have to measure or search the individual impedance of each speaker in the cab, but it'd work if it matches up. (They have the same thing on Amazon, but Newegg has the frequencies listed)
https://www.newegg.com/p/19S-007X-00037
The car audio crossover is right in the ballpark of split that I want.

I looked into this when I wanted to upgrade my Fisher speakers and decided it was much easier to keep the original hardware, I just needed to install newer higher quality caps and add some insulation inside the cabinets to make a better listening experience. My Fisher speakers are very similar to yours in that they have the woofers wired direct, but the caps change voltages at different hertz so the woofers drop out at a certain range without the need for anything else. I see your specs state they can go down to 35hrtz which should make for some decent audio as they are, add a sub and I'm sure they will kick it out.
Without a doubt those caps are dried out, so as I stated just upgrade those to some better quality caps and you'll be able to tell the difference...Just give that a shot before you spend a bunch of cash trying something that is unknown first.

The woofers are wired direct, no filter. This presents an absolutely terrible listening experience because the bass is mushy and has 0 punch or rumble. The 5.25" setup in my Polks have more punch compared to these that have the biggest woofers out of all 3 tower designs I have. Highs and mids coming through the woofers sound like somebody screaming through a wet blanket. What makes it worse is I haven't tried looking at the specific value of the cap but it sounds like the value makes it pass around 7k so the highs are just screeching at ear level. I have them set as rears so the response curve is nullified by being behind me for the time being.

 

[Joe C]

It would just be a wild guess just to pop any x-over in a cabinet and hope for the best. That link I provided from my last post explains how to use the speakers and the box specs to see what kind of hardware that it would take for the best audio to match the x-over.
I found some specs on line for those speakers but you can physically measure the speakers depth and diameter, There's usually a manufacture and serial number on the back magnets of each speaker and you can often use that to get more detailed specs for each speaker.

Parts Express is also another place to check out for getting all your audio toys too.
https://www.parts-express.com/speaker-components/crossover-components

This is for your speaker set up but this is using the oem x-over
https://servlib.com/sony/audio/ss-mf600h.html
SPECIFICATIONS
Ver 1.0 2002.02
Speaker system
3-way, magnetically shielded
Loud speaker units
Woofer: 20 cm, cone type × 2
Mid range: 8 cm, cone type
Tweeter: 2.5cm, balance dome type
Enclosure type Bass reflex
Rated impedance 8 Ω
Power handling capacity
Maximum input power: 200W
Sensitivity level 89 dB (1W, 1m)
Frequency range 35 Hz - 50,000 Hz
Cross over frequency 5,000 Hz, 7,000 Hz
Dimensions (w/h/d)
Approx. 240 × 1,050 × 272 mm, not including front grille
Finish Black foil laminated
Mass Approx. 15.5 kg
Supplied accessory Speaker cord 2.5 m (2)

 

[PP Mguire]

It would just be a wild guess just to pop any x-over in a cabinet and hope for the best. That link I provided from my last post explains how to use the speakers and the box specs to see what kind of hardware that it would take for the best audio to match the x-over.
I found some specs on line for those speakers but you can physically measure the speakers depth and diameter, There's usually a manufacture and serial number on the back magnets of each speaker and you can often use that to get more detailed specs for each speaker.

Yea, and that is why I want listed specs for each range before using them. The car audio one is right in range of where it needs to be to split the signal properly and sound decent. It just needs to send a certain range to the designated speaker and the rest is done by the speaker. It's really not that complicated. Going for properly port tuned, wood tuned, etc is just a rabbit hole of idiocy that audiophiles can follow and waste time and money in. When it comes to a cheap solution like what I have going on it's as simple as signal -> split 3 ranges -> speakers. No different than an active solution for pro-audio, the difference there is the rack units are tweakable for your environment. In my case I need woofers capped below 300hz, and mids to not go higher than 4k. That will produce a decent enough sound to get the job done rather than woofers getting straight full signal and making a mess of things. In fact probably decent enough to not warrant replacing the speakers themselves which is why a real crossover is needed first.

Car audio enthusiasts do this all time, and so did we in pro audio. I've put crossovers in pro audio cabinets all the time even if the signal is actively crossover pre amp to protect the horns and woofer voice coils. We at one time even did a 3 way active setup. Mix -> EQ rack -> crossover -> 3 separate amps -> low/mid/high.

Cross over frequency 5,000 Hz, 7,000 Hz

This says 5k/7k, when I originally posted I assumed 7k based on my ear bleed and was correct. There's only one inline cap to the tweeter.
These are 21 year old speakers, did you see what the others were saying about these online back then? Sony had issues with mass manufacturing and a lot of their speaker lines were coming with different components. This is why a proper crossover is required, otherwise I'll never get a decent sound out of these with full range going to the woofers.

 

[Joe C]

If your going to replace the speakers anyway, here's an on line calculator to help you with getting a cross over. There is a lot of other info on this web site to check out too.
https://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/ApcSpeakerCrossover/

 

[PP Mguire]

Yea I've had that site bookmarked for a while because I wanted to build my own powered sub.

 

[PP Mguire]

Phanteks 360MP to go in the wife's machine, PCI-E to PCI adapter, and a few tubes of Arctic MX-6.

 

[Joe C]

A few tubes of Arctic MX?
Ain't suppos'd to feed that stuff to your mouse or eat it ya know!.....LOL

 

[Trotter]

Not so much as what I've bought, but my wife and I just did a cash out refinance. So I am buying a new roof, just paid off all our credit cards, and are looking to redo the kitchen and master bath. I'm angling to try to buy a 1440p 165 or 144Hz ultrawide, but I really don't need it as I am using a 43" 1200p 120Hz already.