Potentially the longest thread in history...

Got a new smart energy meter that shows real time electricity and gas usage in the house. The amber light for high usage turns on every time I fire up a PC game, lol.
 
Joe C said:
That sux!
I guess it will be a while before you go back to Sonic?
Click to expand...
Definitely never again. Every time I go to Sonic I get sick in some way and my wife insisted it was just the other location. I said no it's all, then we ordered. Damn near cost 50 bucks and I said never paying that again. I'd say about 11:30 at night everybody in the house took off for a bathroom.
 
Joe C said:
I was under the impression that Smart Guy stated that he just had his condenser and evap replaced. Those things should not not get dirty on the inside unless you have some major issues...but they are prone to developing leaks. If he is low on charge then SG needs to go back to whom ever replaced those parts to leak check the system. If they did plug up with some goo (I've seen this from severely contaminated systems) Then Every Thing will need to be replaced including the hoses. In the old days you could flush the system out with some R-11 but that stuff has been banned for a long time now. If they used something new to flush out cooling systems, I am not aware of it.
Smart guy, When they replaced those parts did they replace all the refrig. oil and filter driers too? It should be on the statement of your repair (at least here in the U.S. it should)
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Condenser is 8 years old now, but shows no signs of wear and dirt on it. I replaced the compressor, valve something that's connected to the evaporator, and the receiver drier. With that, I had a refrigerant refill and a flush with some kinda Freon R something with two digits. Don't remember if it was R11. Also the condenser had the fins cleaned and the spot right behind the aux fans that's difficult to clean well without removing the fans. Well known good grade US made oil was used too. It has some gold color to show up to pin point leaks.

Not sure if the condenser has something bad inside of it at this point, but it actually cools very well at temps lower than 100F it feels the AC is perfect. AFAIK if there were problems like the mentioned above, cooling would be bad and felt even at low ambient temps. And 100F is not even that low to begin with. But it is 8 years old now and I really hammer this car. In these 8 years I put ~150k miles on the clock and 2/3rd of this mileage was done under temps no lower than 110F. So not sure if, even tho it's maintained well, something very slight could be there in it that maybe cause bad AC cooling to be felt only under high ambient temps. Dunno.

The thing is, the originally described is the nature of the AC in these cars. I'm about certain that nothing wrong is there in the system (all advice was appreciated, tho). I'm more interested in how modern (or other non Mercedes at the time) cars managed to rectify this bad nature so I could perhaps try to apply it to this old car. And modern cars I tried don't have tints and they use r134.

I heard there's some kinda condenser called parallel flow something. I could give this a try. I also consider insulating the pipes/hoses with something tempered. I'm looking for something good to withstand the heat under the hood to not suddenly burn on me. Also (Mercedes expert thing) if the car can take modern compressors, bigger condensers, bigger evaporators, etc.

I will start with the first hint mentioned; insulation.

I heard new compressors don't have clutches and have sensors to take their place. Is that true? Google gave weird results when I searched.
 
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Maybe a larger capacity compressor. I am old school and I do not know of any other methods to run the compressor other than a clutch, which is electrically operated. There is a flow valve in there to regulate a constant pressure on the high side due to the variable engine speeds. Along with a larger compressor you might be able to add a second condenser and evap in parallel with your existing piping. You'll really need a automotive A/C tech that is not afraid of cutting stuff up.
I did do some checking and today they use something called Rx-11 to flush out A/C systems but under normal conditions you should never need to flush out the A/C system unless it was contaminated with water or another type of refrigerant that it was not designed for. I'm not sure about 134A but in most other cooling/refrigeration systems water mixed with refrigerants creates hydroflouric acid and this is some of the most nastiest stuff. Eats everything including glass. Filter driers remove (actually hold) water in A/C systems which is why you need to replace them if the system gets contaminated. Replacing the oil helps a system clean up too. If your system needed to be flushed ask why. if it was contaminated with water then your odds of having pin hole leaks are very high, condensers and evaporators are designed to be highly efficient...that means very thin aluminum or copper tubes to the fins to provide the best heat transfer.
 
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Joe C said:
Maybe a larger capacity compressor. I am old school and I do not know of any other methods to run the compressor other than a clutch, which is electrically operated. There is a flow valve in there to regulate a constant pressure on the high side due to the variable engine speeds. Along with a larger compressor you might be able to add a second condenser and evap in parallel with your existing piping. You'll really need a automotive A/C tech that is not afraid of cutting stuff up.
I did do some checking and today they use something called Rx-11 to flush out A/C systems but under normal conditions you should never need to flush out the A/C system unless it was contaminated with water or another type of refrigerant that it was not designed for. I'm not sure about 134A but in most other cooling/refrigeration systems water mixed with refrigerants creates hydroflouric acid and this is some of the most nastiest stuff. Eats everything including glass. Filter driers remove (actually hold) water in A/C systems which is why you need to replace them if the system gets contaminated. Replacing the oil helps a system clean up too. If your system needed to be flushed ask why. if it was contaminated with water then your odds of having pin hole leaks are very high, condensers and evaporators are designed to be highly efficient...that means very thin aluminum or copper tubes to the fins to provide the best heat transfer.
Click to expand...
Maybe if they swapped from 12 to 134a they had to flush? Idk, too tired to go back and look if he mentioned that.
 
Yup....I had to go back and reread this thread. SG said that he got his A/C flushed and evap and condenser were not replaced. I can not understand as to why he needed this system flushed unless it was contaminated? Looks like he said his car already had 134A when it was manufactured. Very possible that he could be low on charge or his car's system is not designed for temps over 100f. SG will need to check the normal operating temps within the cars specs
 
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