New work PC

I'm sure he knows what the difference in speed it is going from HDD to SSD is. It's great that it was a sale, yet OP doesn't want one period.
 
I'm sure he knows what the difference in speed it is going from HDD to SSD is. It's great that it was a sale, yet OP doesn't want one period.
Clearly, but the point being is especially in work related machines there isn't much of an excuse. It's the same argument I had 2 years ago with the procurement team at work about HDDs vs SSDs. They were ordering machines with 1TB drives in them but yet 90% of the people receiving these machines complained they were slow compared to their coworkers that had laptops with SSDs in them. These same 90% would also only be using a 10th of the space at any given time yet a 128GB SSD was the same cost from the OEM as the 1TB drive. We also had constant issues with those 1TB drives dying be it Toshiba, WD, or Seagate drives yet the old 9470m's with old Intel SSDs are still kicking in an abusive environment. People tend simply associate an SSD with a machine that's meant for speed, gaming, high production etc while forgetting the other benefits that come with them. The main things that kill a drive is vibration, temp variation, and fragmentation. None of which have an effect on an SSD. All things your run of the mill work machine would suffer from due to regular usage. Maybe my thinking is backwards here, but IMO it's more critical to have better parts in a machine that makes you money over a machine that's simply for pleasure :MeGusta:
 
I think I may indeed "want" a SSD- but definitely don't "need" one. I was out of town last week , communicating on my Phone so made my posts as short as possible. I don't want to spend more for speed I don't need - that's all. Of coarse, SSD would be "better" and i use SSD's on my home builds that I game on, watch streaming movies on, etc.etc. Today= first day home from vacation. I threw in a new 1TB HHD that I had purchased a month ago for storing media/games on in the home build but had not yet installed. I loaded up win7, Drivers from the MSI mobo website,etc. and have the PC working again as a temporary fix. Now I can wait for a sale, etc. and build a new work PC in a non-emergency way. Will still build the new work PC quickly as I know that the issue that fried the old HHD may still be present = PSU or MOBO. Now I can look at the differences between the 2200 and the 2400 and figure out if there is still a MOBO bios issue for these new CPU's or not. Then decide if a SSD makes sense or not.
 
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I also love that SSD's are much quieter - nice to not hear the constant spinning, especially as the HDD ages. Not only are SSD's faster than HDD's period, SSD's have a longer lifespan then die suddenly in comparison to HDD's which firstly have a shorter lifespan as well as the point that hasn't been mentioned here, SSD's do slow down as they get filled up. you should never use more than 70% of its total capacity. Here this is explained https://www.howtogeek.com/165542/why-solid-state-drives-slow-down-as-you-fill-them-up/. So ensure you have more than enough storage. however, HDD's slow down more as they fill up due to file fragmentaiton.
 
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Yep- Ok - other than many,many word documents - I am up and running. Now I can shop and start pickign parts that go on sale,etc. I really should build two and I have 2 work PC's , only one failed- but the other is 5-6 years old ( build at the same time with the same parts) and is probably going to fail soon as well. So will try to build these with win10, the 2400 cpu and a 500GB SSD. Then have an external HHD/backup drive for both of them.
 
hmmm..... been doing some reading etc. the Intel i3 8100 fits my needs as well. Obviously it does not have the Video power the new Ryzen 2200 has. But again, NOT gaming at work anyhow. Opinions? Have builds ( HHD, 16 GB RAM, MOBO, CASE, PSU) on Newegg wish lists for both and they are within $10 of each other - $485 Ryzen and $495 Intel not including a new OS - will probably download Win10 home 64bit. I did look into the Ryzen 2400 - but for the extra $70 it did not seem to be needed.
 
If you have an existing Windows 7, 8 or 8.1 key, then you can use that to activate a new Windows 10 install and you do not have to purchase Windows 10
 
When you install Windows 10, just use your legitimate Windows 7, 8, 8.1 key. It's really simple. Of course you can not use a generic key that OEM's use via an slic bios for authentication. But you can use COA and Retail keys. Just be sure to use the proper install for the proper key : Windows 7 home key to Windows 10 home or Windows 7 Pro to Windows 10 Pro....ect.
When you install 10 and it asks for a key, just use the previous (7/8) Windows key and when you get on line it authenticates as a legal install of 10. I've done this myself on more than one occasion

Your Master wants you to serve him by making it very very easy to install legally
 
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cool- wow - I thought that free upgrade to win10 stuff went out along time ago. That saves me $100+ per PC. So , since I now have the old work PC running with a new hhd with win7 pro running on it ( legally activated) - can I then just take out that HHD and put it in the new work PC - then do the free upgrade to win10 pro - downloading the win10 pro onto a SSD?
 
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