I require a case

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I vote for the haf. And just prime and paint the inside the same you would anything else metal, it doesn't have to be "electronics safe"
 
I won't mod til I get more money for it, it's probably the most expensive hobby today, "propping". The first thing I gotta finish with my propping is my Power Suit from Metroid :p That bloody suit has been in production for about 2 years now and I am sick of it being Un-finished. Sides, who wouldn't want a life sized Samus in their room protecting them from the boogy man while they slept?

Just remember, Samus is the destroyer of worlds.



Newegg.com - COOLER MASTER HAF 932 RC-932-KKN1-GP Black Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case - Computer Cases

or

Newegg.com - Antec Twelve Hundred Black Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case - Computer Cases


cooler master only has 1 rear exhaust.. but has ability on side and top to have larger fans (there are mounting spots, not just grid work)
antec comes with free shipping... but I hate blue so would probably disable or replace all blue LED.. which would take probably $30 bucks to replace all the fans. Hmmmm

Which do you think is better?


According to reviews the Coolermaster cools as effectively- if not better- then the 1200, and at lower RPM (noise levels for that part) So I am really Leaning toward the CM...

Anyone know of some Electronics safe paint to spray the interior?

I've owned many Antec and Coolermaster cases and both make good quality for $$$ products, in fact, if I had to pick one I'd say that traditionally I've found coolermaster to edge antec on quality for $$$. But I prefer look of antec, I'm also tossing the blue LEDs for some none LED fans.

Anyways, painting metal is pretty straight forward just sand it down to scuff the surface and use a self-etching primer before applying a nice finish. If you visit your local NAPA auto store (find one that does paint) they should have all you need whether you're painting from a rattle can or have access to a gun. Just remember, if you go with the 2 part paint for a gun you're dealing with some nasty chemicals (isocyanates) so make sure you have the proper respirator.
 
I vote for the haf. And just prime and paint the inside the same you would anything else metal, it doesn't have to be "electronics safe"

crayons work good too.

btw, i am not a good painter it seems, i didnt use primer x_X

im not even sure the paint was dry before i was crammin in the mobo.
 
Well I've had some bad luck with paints recently, even with good sanding to scuff up the surfaces of plastics and metals, and a good coat of primer (or 3) the paint has been peeling off and flaking, that would drive me nuts inside a computer. Could just be the quality of paint however. have any brand name suggestions? (I am thinking non-gloss black with a mist of Maroon for detail.

Oh .. and Iam going with the HAF. the 1200 is nice and all.. and the prices are decent for both right now.. however... there's just something that doesn't set well with me with the rear of the 1200. Not sure what it is.


Reason I like both is the designs, although the HAF only has 1 exhaust vent, it has the top fan as well to help, so I am sure it won't have any issues just because it has less fans. The front only has the 1 huge fan vs. the several smaller fans, which again I like... probably just my style over anything though. I'll do some tests to see what the pull on the stock fans are, and if they can handle the blockage, make a few dust covers using the same foam material that is used to cut the hiss noise from microphones.


In this image http://www.insidehw.com/images/stories/reviews/cases/CM_HAF_932/Cooler_Master_HAF_932_detail7.jpg it shows someone mounting the PSU... which way would I need to mount mine? it has the fan/metal grill on it so I don't think it would fit flat against the little 'riser' on the bottom, or .. well it would.. but it would push on the little grill and I am not sure if that's how it was designed to be...
 
That's the way it's built, stock, your psu should sit on top of it and screw into the standardized bracket. I'm sure someone with an HAF will be in here to confirm but your psu will be fine with the case.

When painting the prep is critical, if you did a good job with the sanding and it's peeling chances are you used the wrong type of primer, you need to match your primer to the type of material you are painting. For bare metal a self-etching primer (acidic component) will adhere into the metal. This will give a better grip so to speak so chipping is less likely, and shouldn't happen.

Here is what I use for a standard black paint job, bought from local NAPA auto supply:



From left to right:
1) self etching primer (spray can)
2) flat black (spray can)
3-5) 3 part paint mix of catalyst, reducer and pigment (Mercedes gloss black)

I can get one mid-tower case done with what you see there, the reducer and catalyst will last years. Flat black interior and gloss black exterior.
 
I would get these

Newegg.com - COOLER MASTER HAF 932 RC-932-KKN1-GP Black Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case - Computer Cases

or

Which is BRand New! (the redsigned the case a little bit, and finally painted the interior black.) The 1200 is too big.
Newegg.com - Antec Nine Hundred Two Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Computer Cases

lastly even if you don't plan on overclocking the i7 920 runs extemely hot with the stock cooling unit. high 44+ idle...75+load. I recommend getting an aftermarket cooler.

this cooler dropped my idle temps at stock clock from 45ish to 28ish. I have it overclocked at 3.2 with idle temps around 33c. I even had it overclocked up to 3.9Ghz for a while with idle temps around 40c (which is still cooler than the stock cooler at stock speeds. lol)

Newegg.com - Vigor Monsoon III LT Dual 120mm Fan CPU Cooler Socket 1366 Ready - CPU Fans & Heatsinks
 
Oo good idea, forgot that typical Stock fans suck.

Oh what is a great thermal paste anymore? I am so out of date it isn't even funny.


Also, there have been issues with the motherboard I chose, so I want to make sure it'll still function, or if I should wait for "version 2"


Ugg.. Still need CPU/Mobo RAM GPU and Case. This is going slower then expected.

Oh with the PSU- so it should sit "open side" down still? even though there's only about 1 inch or so of "air" space?

Ok_ Updated links,proposed build.

GPU: Newegg.com - ASUS EAH4870 DK/HTDI/1GD5 Radeon HD 4870 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card - Desktop Graphics / Video Cards -or-
Newegg.com - SAPPHIRE 100259-1GL Radeon HD 4870 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card - Desktop Graphics / Video Cards

Case: Newegg.com - COOLER MASTER HAF 932 RC-932-KKN1-GP Black Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case - Computer Cases

RAM: Newegg.com - OCZ 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Triple Channel Kit Desktop Memory - Desktop Memory

CPU: Newegg.com - Intel Core i7 920 Nehalem 2.66GHz 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Processor - Processors - Desktops

Motherboard: Newegg.com - ASUS P6T Deluxe LGA 1366 Intel X58 ATX Intel Motherboard - Intel Motherboards

Power Supply: (already purchased) Corsair TX750w 80+/SLI ready

Monitor: (purchased and using) ASUS 21.5in 1080P Wide Screen, HDMI support (Absolutely gorgeous btw!)

CDRom: (wonderful drive, mostly.) Newegg.com - SAMSUNG Black 20X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 16X DVD+R DL 20X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA 20X DVD±R DVD Burner with LightScribe - CD / DVD Burners

Haddrive: (right in front of me.. no Data cable.. lol) Seagate Barricuda 7200.11 1TB
 
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