First Attempt at New Gaming Rig ~ Please Advise

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That all looks like a pretty good set of components to me. Every so often, I put together a trial/sample configuration of what I'd buy as a "one back" system. That is, rather than buy the absolute fastest and most expensive components, I pick ones near the top, but just below the point where the price curve jumps up significantly. I did one yesterday (using Newegg as the source) and the CPU and video card you chose match the ones I'd picked. You also matched on the disk drives and DVD-RW drive, but that's more a personal preference rather than just price. I'm hooked on Seagate drives and have been for the last couple years. There's lots of disk drives and DVD-RW drives within a few dollars of those though.

I was trying to create a build much like you state. Not the best of the best but one step below the best, as well as maintaining the ability to upgrade certain parts (CPU, etc.) as needed in the coming years.

I did have a few thoughts. I'm assuming that you're planning on using the onboard audio, which I think is fine. I've been doing the same with the build I did in January. That said, my prior build used a Creative Audigy card - the one with the external box. My new build didn't have the space for the two card slot configuration of that setup, so I went with the onboard sound. The audio from the onboard sound chip (ADI AD1988B in my case) is just not as good at the old Audigy card's was. (I'm using the same speaker setup.) I guess if I were you, I'd start with the onboard audio and see what you think. That doesn't cost you anything. I know in my case, there's some version of Sound Blaster X-Fi in my future.

The way I see it is I am playing games for the grafix. The MMOs I play we are usually runnin ventrilo or teamspeak so I have the sound turned down low or off all together. I may end up picking up a sound card in the future, but it wasn't a need as I can and have been content with the the onboard sound card.


I'm guessing since you're buying two disk drives, you're planning on RAID 0 or 1 in the new system (with no other drives). If so, you're going to need to buy or borrow a floppy to install the RAID drivers during your Windows XP install. (If someone's found a way to do this with the drivers on CD, great, but please respond with how.) I only see the option to install 3rd party drivers from floppy during the initial install. You won't need it after the install is complete, so borrowing one from any old system you have is fine. (I'm hoping Vista is a little smarter here.)

I had thought about it. Then I was actually thinking of using one hd for the OS and OS related applications and using the other hd for my gaming and other files. I was going to check into the stability of RAID 0 or 1 and see whether it was recommended to use that or wait for 2 more hd's and setup a RAID 5. Any thoughts about this?

As for the disk, would it not be possible to load the required files on a thumb drive and use the thumb drive as a floppy drive? I know I have ued this for many situations where some computers at work did not have floppy drives and the only thing we had was a thumb drive. I would be willing to bet thatwe could get around he floppydisk using that method.

I'll keep in mind the fact that I should use the older RAID drivers.

I'm sure you're aware the retail version of the Intel E6600 comes with a heatsink and fan. The Arctic Cooling one you're buying is almost certainly better than that, but you don't feel you have to buy a separate one. I'm using the retail fan and heatsink on my current build and my idle temperatures are 36C and fully loaded only goes to 40 or 41C. Compare that to the Athlon 64 it replaced that idled at 49C and went to 53C under load. (I reused my existing case, so the fan setup is the same between the two.) The Core 2 duos run amazingly cool. If you're planning on doing some heavy overclocking, maybe the 3rd party one is a good idea. The reason I chose retail was to get the 3-year (versus 1-year) warranty. I'm almost certain using a 3rd party heatsink & fan does not violate the warranty. Almost. I know the warranty covers the fan and heatsink, but it doesn't say you have to use it.

Actually, I did not know that the retail came with it's own heatsink and fan. But, even armed with this knowledge I think I'll use the Arctic Cooling with Arctic Silver 5 just because I have read that it is a very good CPU cooler. I was planning on doing the OCing to 3.2 ish once I figure out how to do that (yes I'll be reading more in this forum about how to do that).


I appreciate you taking the time to mention a few things that I may have or may not have known regarding my upcoming build. It gave me a few things to keep in mind while I learn more about this building hobby I have now.

If you or anyone else thinks of something else that I may have missed or not thought about please don't hesitate to mention it.
 
I was trying to create a build much like you state. Not the best of the best but one step below the best, as well as maintaining the ability to upgrade certain parts (CPU, etc.) as needed in the coming years.

It's funny, and I was going to mention this is my original post, but it was already way too long. I used to always think I'd upgrade CPUs in the future. In reality, except for one desktop (K6/II 350 to K6/II+ 550) and one laptop (about the same bump and era in time), I never end up doing it. By the time that becomes necessary, I always end up wanting to upgrade the CPU ... and the motherboard ... and the memory ... and. The upgrade cycles are just so short now. 18 months to two years is the longest my "one back" gaming machines last.

The way I see it is I am playing games for the grafix. The MMOs I play we are usually runnin ventrilo or teamspeak so I have the sound turned down low or off all together. I may end up picking up a sound card in the future, but it wasn't a need as I can and have been content with the the onboard sound card.

Funny you should mention that, too. :) The reason I loved that external box was using Ventrilo and Teamspeak when playing WoW. It has a option that when you plug in the headphones (from my headset), it automatically disables the surround sound speakers. So when those raids started, I was ready to go in seconds. Also great for when those raids went into late night. Boy, do I miss that. I may get the Audigy with the breakout box that installs internally in a 5.25" bay just to get that back (and the better sound).

I had thought about [RAID 0 or 1]. Then I was actually thinking of using one hd for the OS and OS related applications and using the other hd for my gaming and other files. I was going to check into the stability of RAID 0 or 1 and see whether it was recommended to use that or wait for 2 more hd's and setup a RAID 5. Any thoughts about this?

I'm a RAID 1 (mirroring) sl*t (rhymes with hut) puppy. I used to back up faithfully .. to tape even .. scheduled and everything. Then disks got bigger than 50 GB and it was going to take all night and multiple ($100) 50 GB tapes. I gave up. Now, I just mirror my disks. So far, that's saved me twice. In both cases, the drive that died was less than six months old. As far as stability, I've not had any issues in a long, long time. Really, the only trick was getting the drivers installed during the initial OS install. I was going to post a bit about the different types of RAID, but I'm sure that's been done to death here elsewhere.

As for the disk, would it not be possible to load the required files on a thumb drive and use the thumb drive as a floppy drive? I know I have used this for many situations where some computers at work did not have floppy drives and the only thing we had was a thumb drive. I would be willing to bet that we could get around he floppy disk using that method.

I'll keep in mind the fact that I should use the older RAID drivers.

I'm not sure, but maybe. When you are installing XP directly from the CD, it doesn't seem to know about USB devices (but it does know about USB keyboards and mice, so maybe). The dialog that tells you to press F6 (as I recall) to install 3rd party drivers, later only gives the option of installing them from the floppy drive. A USB floppy or data key acting like a floppy might work. This is before XP is still in the character-based portion of the install. If you try it and it works let us know.

Actually, I did not know that the retail came with it's own heatsink and fan. But, even armed with this knowledge I think I'll use the Arctic Cooling with Arctic Silver 5 just because I have read that it is a very good CPU cooler. I was planning on doing the OCing to 3.2 ish once I figure out how to do that (yes I'll be reading more in this forum about how to do that).

That's still a good idea. The Arctic Cooling fan sounds like it's probably a quiet one, too. The retail fan on this CPU is not particularly loud as some have been. I've had some that were just shy of the dB level F14's thrusting up for takeoff.

I will say though that I'm not really a big fan [pun intended] of the way the LGA775 form factor fans go on the motherboard. Back in the day, I used to dread putting on the heatsink/fan where the screwdriver might slip off the push-down tab and ruin a perfectly good motherboard. Then they just kept getting better, easier, and practically impossible to mess up. Just a couple arms to push down and lock into place. Nice and snug and with my bare hands. With the four pin setup of the LGA775 form, there's a bit of a need to be a contortionist to get all four pins pushed through the motherboard and locked into place (at least with the retail heatsink - maybe the 3rd party ones are better). I kept having one pop up while pushing down another. Even after getting all four in place and locked, I wasn't completely confident I'd gotten them all. They just don't have that locked-and-not-going-anywhere feel of the previous heatsinks. I'd love to know why Intel didn't continue with their previous designs.

I appreciate you taking the time to mention a few things that I may have or may not have known regarding my upcoming build. It gave me a few things to keep in mind while I learn more about this building hobby I have now.

No Problem. That's what we do here.
 
It's funny, and I was going to mention this is my original post, but it was already way too long. I used to always think I'd upgrade CPUs in the future. In reality, except for one desktop (K6/II 350 to K6/II+ 550) and one laptop (about the same bump and era in time), I never end up doing it. By the time that becomes necessary, I always end up wanting to upgrade the CPU ... and the motherboard ... and the memory ... and. The upgrade cycles are just so short now. 18 months to two years is the longest my "one back" gaming machines last.


I do the same thing. Promise myself that I will be upgrading only certain parts but that never seems to be the case. The last full computer upgrade was back in 2004. It lasted until my GFX card died and that was about 1 year ago. So for the most part my computer has lasted for the last 3 years with only the GFX card needing replaced. Seems like I upgrade a complete computer about every 2-3 years.


Funny you should mention that, too. :) The reason I loved that external box was using Ventrilo and Teamspeak when playing WoW. It has a option that when you plug in the headphones (from my headset), it automatically disables the surround sound speakers. So when those raids started, I was ready to go in seconds. Also great for when those raids went into late night. Boy, do I miss that. I may get the Audigy with the breakout box that installs internally in a 5.25" bay just to get that back (and the better sound).

Can you give me some examples of cards that might be used for this purpose? Not sure I have ever seen anything that works like how you are stating. I could find great use in something like that.

I'm a RAID 1 (mirroring) sl*t (rhymes with hut) puppy. I used to back up faithfully .. to tape even .. scheduled and everything. Then disks got bigger than 50 GB and it was going to take all night and multiple ($100) 50 GB tapes. I gave up. Now, I just mirror my disks. So far, that's saved me twice. In both cases, the drive that died was less than six months old. As far as stability, I've not had any issues in a long, long time. Really, the only trick was getting the drivers installed during the initial OS install. I was going to post a bit about the different types of RAID, but I'm sure that's been done to death here elsewhere.

Okay, I am starting to think that maybe I should go with the RAID 1 setup. I don't backup nearly as much as I should and by having this setup I would have no choice which works for me. I'll start planning for that and perhaps purchase a smaller hd for my OS and OS applications.
 
Can you give me some examples of cards that might be used for this purpose? Not sure I have ever seen anything that works like how you are stating. I could find great use in something like that.
Sure. I was eying the Creative SOUND BLASTER X-Fi Fatal1ty FPS 7.1 specifically. If you look at the pictures there, you'll see the break out box that goes in a 5.25" drive bay. It has connections for all sorts of things including headphones and a microphone (i.e., a headset).

The version I used to have had the breakout panel in an external box that sat on my desk (with my computer under it). It required a huge hunking cable from a secondary daughter card from the back of the computer to the box. It's the second PCI slot that card took I couldn't afford in this build. The internal breakout panel just takes up a spare 5.25" bay. That, I have two of. I also moved my computer on top of my desk. It was getting too dusty down there.

Hey! There's a $50 rebate! Right after I post this, I'm buying one of those.
 
Well your right technically it isn't worth the weight in price/performance ratio but if you are a gamer when you get to the high end some people just want to make sure they get the best frames.
 
640mb = 320mb.... or pretty close. I'd rather save the difference in $$$.

Well I cannot say one way or the other which is better but wouldn't double the ram be better considering its only about $20-$30 more? Looking for the most bang for my buck and that's how I approached the GFX card options. Anyone else have any opinions on whether my logic is off on this topic?
 
$20-$30 bucks? It's like $50+ gap. an OC'd 320 will stomp a stock 640 as well, so you have to compare the same clocks.
 
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