router or a switch for home network?

[burn1nator]

Hello everyone,

I am in the process on buying a home. I will be rewiring the whole house with ethernet cable for every room if possible. Maybe even 2 to 3 cables to certain locations. (maybe over kill, but i hate interference with wireless, and slowness). I will be getting cable. I want to setup a modem, with a router or maybe a switch. I own my own modem and router.

What i want to know, is what would be the best setup.

Cable modem, router then 16 port switch

or

Cable modem, 8 to 16 port router

I am looking to buying a used one from ebay.
Cisco Linksys SR2024 24-Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch 10/100/1000 Mbps (for $70 i think is a good deal)

I have never setup a network this big before. Never really my field, but i am never afraid learning new things. You might think that 16 ports for a small home of 4 rooms is over kill, but if you think about it, 1 for each room (4 rooms total), i want to setup 3 cables for the living room (tv, sling box, xbox/ps4), 2 lines for a possible photography studio, so that i dont have to run cables on the floor.

Thx for your time and advice.

The Burn1nator.

 

[Spud1200]

If it were me my self and I. I would go Router then Switch with the Cable Modem. Based on your ISP Speeds I would most deffo go future proof and in the case of any failures or upgrades you can swap out the hardware.

I have a 16 Port Switch running ten systems 24 \ 7 in my Home threw 10 \ 100 Ethernet and thus I will be Maxing out this shorty and may need a 24 port minimum as I'm also getting Fiber Optic installed. What I'm saying is future proofing isn't going to hurt and especially the likes possible future devices. Me and you are in the same boat because I can't stand Wireless slow speeds and interference as well. I ticks me off and a pain to set up when you can plug a guaranteed connected 10 \ 100 \ 1000 Jack in to the Modem \ Router \ Switch .

 

[burn1nator]

Thats what i was also thinking Spud. I want to be able to set it up for the future. Thats one of the reasons i am also getting Cat6 cable from the start.

Having 3 devices, means that i would only replace 1 device if i needed to upgrade only a portion of the network for a future update. I wish i could get fiber on the area that i am moving too,(talking to you Google) but i am sure cable will try to compete with other providers. They offer 300mb, which is better than nothing. Hopefully in the future, someone can offer gigabit, and then i think i will be set.

 

[Spud1200]

Thats what i was also thinking Spud. I want to be able to set it up for the future. Thats one of the reasons i am also getting Cat6 cable from the start.

Having 3 devices, means that i would only replace 1 device if i needed to upgrade only a portion of the network for a future update. I wish i could get fiber on the area that i am moving too,(talking to you Google) but i am sure cable will try to compete with other providers. They offer 300mb, which is better than nothing. Hopefully in the future, someone can offer gigabit, and then i think i will be set.

We have just had Fiber rolled out hear in the UK. Most places have it but theirs a few like kmans area that don't. I'm getting it by the end of this month so it shouldn't be a problem for me. I have my router then my switch. I'm going Fiber so then I'll have my VDSL equipment then my Modem I presume then my switch. All's good as long as they don't screw me rite over since I've poor credit and cancel the order.

 

[setishock]

If it was me I'd be careful of how the cables get routed. I used to install digital security systems. There's nothing like chasing a hum on a line because it was too close to an ac line or didn't cross at 90degs to the power line. And when you put the connectors on the leads connect them in a gigabit configuration.
I'd go with separate devices. That way if one poops out you replace just that device. A good heavy duty surge strip would be a good investment.

 

[Spud1200]

If it was me I'd be careful of how the cables get routed. I used to install digital security systems. There's nothing like chasing a hum on a line because it was too close to an ac line or didn't cross at 90degs to the power line. And when you put the connectors on the leads connect them in a gigabit configuration.
I'd go with separate devices. That way if one poops out you replace just that device. A good heavy duty surge strip would be a good investment.

Thats really excellent advice Seti. You will, elaborating on what Seti has said have to take in too account the meterage of your home to route the Ethernet such as threw or around walls and door ways ECT: Stick to separate devices and when possible given the budget use surge protection. If you are using heavy equipment use a good branded name and thus take in too account the Amp and Voltage. Also try to put some serious thought in too were the power out lets are and work around them in fashion.

 

[1etherer]

I agree with spud, I think it best to have separate devices in a network environment.. and agree with seti on wiring

 

[burn1nator]

If it was me I'd be careful of how the cables get routed. I used to install digital security systems. There's nothing like chasing a hum on a line because it was too close to an ac line or didn't cross at 90degs to the power line. And when you put the connectors on the leads connect them in a gigabit configuration.
I'd go with separate devices. That way if one poops out you replace just that device. A good heavy duty surge strip would be a good investment.

Thx for the reply. Is there a tutorial on how to terminate them in gigabit configuration?

I might setup a security system in the future, i am glad that you mention this before i get in there. Can you be more specific on how to do the setup when running lines?

 

[C0RR0SIVE]

Honestly... there is no difference between a cable that supports 100Mbps and a cable that supports 1Gigbit. Cat5e UTP will transmit data perfectly fine at 1Gbps. Cat6 UTP will support 10Gbps.

Just remember, unshielded cable means you have to be very cautious of how the cable is ran, it can't run along power, and certainly can NOT be close to ANY florescent lighting. Shielded lets you get away with this, but requires proper termination, as well as a grounded and shielded patch panel.

 

[setishock]

1 Foot if running parallel to 110. 2 feet if it's 220. When crossing over a line do so at 90 degs. FYI When running over hot water lines make a lazy loop so the line is not up anainst the pipe. You'd be surprised how quick the heat can melt the vinyl jacket on cat wiring. The rubber like insulation on 2 conductor will have to be run the same way. Use twisted/stranded wire. When running any comm or sec lines up a wall try to stay one stud over from an outlet or light switch.
Make sure there is a good ground on the network, phone, and security cabinets. It's been my experience that the main water feeder line turns in to a plastic line when it leaves the house to connect to the mains. Drive your own ground rod at least 8 feet long just outside of the foundation. You may run in to some slop from the poured concrete just move a little bit out not more than about 6 inches. Use a good jacketed heavy gauge wire from the points you want to ground to a UL approved clamp on the rod. Keep your ground wire runs as straight as you can.

Use drive rings to run your wires. This way you don't subject the wire to impact damage from a staple gun or a staple piercing a wire and breaking it. Map out the wire routes and nail up the drive rings along that path. Then put cable straps on every other ring to hold the wires.

Hope that was of some help.

OH YEAH!!! Use wire tags to label which wire is which and make a ledgen to go on the panel doors to show what wire number is what device and where it goes.