PS3 in Car for long trip.

[PP Mguire]

You can tell it's taking a toll on the circuit because when I start to push it hard (as in sub amp starts ticking red lights) the volts drop to about 112, but still it is doing it and not dropping below what it should be. My point still remains though, it is possible and the technology is made to do exactly what he wants to do. You just proved my point. You can take what I said and look at car amps the same way. You can power a 6000w JBL/Crown amp in a car off that 12v battery. Just need what's required in the middle to do that. According to what yall are saying, I shouldn't have even been able to use my 1000w amp in my Cavi without frying the cars circuitry. Get what I'm saying?

 

[S0ULphIRE]

What "technology" are you talking about? You can't power a 6000w amp of a 12v car battery. NO. That's a misleading statement. You can maybe get it to turn on, but you can't place a 6000w load on it. What's the point of buying something which can break/trip your circuit if you fully utilise it?

I honestly don't get wtf you're going on about. As far as I can tell you're saying you can run something that's *rated* at xyz watts, so long as it doesn't in fact run at what it's rated at. Doing that is plain stupid tbh. Not only is it a waste of money to buy hardware that can't even run to its full potential, it's plain dangerous to try and power it from a source that's going to be overdrawn if it ever *does* try to run at full (or whatever load would exceed source capabilities)

 

[C0RR0SIVE]

A single watt is a single watt in AC or DC, you loose power when going from DC to AC and vice versa, you can not create energy, if you can get more wattage in AC then what you are supplying in DC, then you are breaking basic laws of physics and are not on the surface of earth any longer.

BTW, most car amps are sold with the MAXIMUM power rating listed, which is always at LEAST double the RMS rating, they can only push that maximum rating for a split second every once in awhile, running it at full power causes damage to the electrical components of the device, and other components of a car. I push 2KW RMS in my car, I have to have a 200 amp fuse minimum, if i was to use a 100 amp fuse, guess what, it would pop, or worst case catch fire, and I have over loaded wiring and fuses before to cause electrical fires to prove to friends you can't pull more then what a fuse and wire is meant to handle.

BTW, Soul, you can pull 6kw off a 12v car battery, as long as theres enough amperage, the wire is heavy enough and you have a large enough fuse, but don't expect it to last long, nor expect the alternator to charge it up.

BTW, house breakers don't measure the current, they trip when HOT, plug all those amps up, EVERYTHING on that breaker and take the load to double what it's rated, this requires all devices to put maximum load on the circuit, see what will happen to the breaker it will pop after a bit. The only purpose of a breaker is to PROTECT the wiring from getting so hot it will catch fire, but the wire WILL get hot, just not to the point it melts and catches fire in the wall.

Car fuses work the same way, but they melt when hot, they are designed to only with stand a certain temperature before melting, but if you get ENOUGH current flowing, it will jump the break and start a fire, this was always fun to do.

 

[S0ULphIRE]

BTW, Soul, you can pull 6kw off a 12v car battery, as long as theres enough amperage, the wire is heavy enough and you have a large enough fuse, but don't expect it to last long, nor expect the alternator to charge it up.

Yha lol, I know you *could* power a 6kW load from a 12v source, just thinking here that the average car won't be able to handle that kind of load (talking realistically not theoretically).