I fix my sub woofer problem

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oh. you seen my rotel amp in the picture.

the difference is attention to detail. pro amp are design to play loud for long periods of time.
good home amps were design to sound great first.


here is a easy way for me to explain it to you

get any decent tweeter. put a 2.2 mfd electrolytic cap on it. listen to it. then try a mylar cap of the same value. you will notice that it will sound a lot better. not put a metal propylene cap on it of the same value. the tweeter will now sound a lot purer.


now the 2.2 electrolytic cap will cost a dollar. the mylar will cost 10. the metal propylene will cost 20-300.00 depending on which one you buy. they are a lot cheaper at parts express but still expensive

in the more expensive amp they use the more expensive caps to put in the signal chain. they used the more expensive parts in general in resistor, chokes and output transistors

nobody would run a pro amp (which use a lot of of extra generic parts for their reliabilty) on high quality speakers. for one you will likely blow your speaker. but they make the perfect choice for sub power as your sub doesn't have to have the finest details

rotel amp are supposed to sound as good as the 5,000.00 amp. I don't know if that's true, but they sound wonderful with my paradigm monitor 11v3. btw the amp is rated for 200wpc. did you see what it actually does. 50% more

Oh that makes sense, thanks.

Yeh me and my dad have always liked rotel amps. I remember looking at reviews of a model a while back rated at around 200wpc but they actually managed to get over 600wpc out of it by doing some simple modification to it. It seems the best makes of amps always under rate there specifications, whereas the worst companies over rate there specifications.

It is about time they make it illegal to quote false specifications on electronics these days, it happens all to much.

this reminds me i really need to get myself a new soundcard. my current one is junk, it is so sensitive to interference i can hear a slight noise just by moving my mouse across the screen. I have checked it and made sure it's grounded but no matter what i do it just as terrible interference, i think the soundcard was defective to start with.

Oh eric i have a question, my monitor speakers have something called a 'limit' light on them, when i play music loud it occasionally will flash. Is this just a safety thing because it thinks the music is to loud or is it technically straining and reaching the limits of the speakers themselves ? either way i always turn it down until it disappears but i never actually knew exactly what it meant.
 
Oh that makes sense, thanks.

Yeh me and my dad have always liked rotel amps. I remember looking at reviews of a model a while back rated at around 200wpc but they actually managed to get over 600wpc out of it by doing some simple modification to it. It seems the best makes of amps always under rate there specifications, whereas the worst companies over rate there specifications.

they actually made a law against this in home audio, back in the 70's. however they stopped enforcing it in the new millennium.

car audio never had to regulate their power specs. it was their craziness with it that bought the bs back to home audio

Oh that makes sense, thanks.

Oh eric i have a question, my monitor speakers have something called a 'limit' light on them, when i play music loud it occasionally will flash. Is this just a safety thing because it thinks the music is to loud or is it technically straining and reaching the limits of the speakers themselves ? either way i always turn it down until it disappears but i never actually knew exactly what it meant.


that a clip light the warn you on the onset of clipping. a little flicker every once in awhile won't hurt anything but don't go wild with as it can damage your system
 
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