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Old 01-03-2011, 12:38 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Default Re: Help me build a no-price-limit watercooling system!

I got a reply! "The heatsink is aluminum, and the water pump head is copper." Does this mean that I only need to worry about the copper part as far as compatibility wiht the CPU block?

EDIT--What about fittings for the CPU block? I don't see any made out of copper.
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Old 01-03-2011, 05:42 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Default Re: Help me build a no-price-limit watercooling system!

The fact that the heatsink is Aluminum means that I personally would not use it, and would instead look at picking up a proper copper motherboard waterblock.

Water cooling fittings are all either Nickel or Silver plated and are not subject to corrosion concerns.
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:06 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Default Re: Help me build a no-price-limit watercooling system!

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Originally Posted by aspire View Post
The fact that the heatsink is Aluminum means that I personally would not use it, and would instead look at picking up a proper copper motherboard waterblock.

Water cooling fittings are all either Nickel or Silver plated and are not subject to corrosion concerns.
Is the aluminum thing a problem with conflicting metals, as in you can't buy aluminum blocks? Or is it that aluminum isn't a good material?

I had looked at the following: EK Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD9 Full Board Cooling Block Kit - Acetal + Nickel (EK-FB KIT GA X58 (UD9) - Acetal + Nickel) Hot Item! - FrozenCPU.com. The main problem I see is a HUGE room for error, as the instructions include taking it on and off, noting on piece of paper whether it "looks right", and if not, putting "more pressue" on before checking again. It seems like poor judgement would lead to fried circuits.
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Old 01-04-2011, 01:06 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Default Re: Help me build a no-price-limit watercooling system!

The aluminum thing is an issue with galvanic corrosion. Essentially, when Ions are free to move about between the two metals, one eventually starts to corrode the other leading to particulates and fairly nasty pitting on the aluminum bits.

The full size motherboard blocks really aren't that difficult to install as long as you use your brain, take it slow, and follow the instructions. I still think that'll be your best bet.
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Old 01-06-2011, 12:58 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Default Re: Help me build a no-price-limit watercooling system!

I think someone told me this would only be a few hundred dollars



Oh well, what's done is done. This computer better cook me breakfast and have sex with me when I'm finished with it

By the way, I got a few extra connectors just in case my mental image doesn't exist in reality.
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Old 01-06-2011, 01:07 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Default Re: Help me build a no-price-limit watercooling system!

Whats with the 1/4" tubing?

There's absolutely no reason not to go for larger tubing...
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Old 01-06-2011, 05:01 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Default Re: Help me build a no-price-limit watercooling system!

You can still use the original motherboard block even if it is made of aluminum, you need to use a coolant that stops corrosion. You just cant use only plain distilled water like I do.
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Old 01-06-2011, 11:00 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Default Re: Help me build a no-price-limit watercooling system!

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Whats with the 1/4" tubing?

There's absolutely no reason not to go for larger tubing...
If all the inlets/outlets are already 1/4" (they are), having larger tubing should have a negligible effect on waterflow. It's the reason I always chuckle at some of the car-mod people (I'm one of them) who put a fart-can muffler with a 3.5" outlet on an exhaust system with 1.5" piping, then wonder why the car is louder, but didn't gain any HP... it's because there is a 1.5" bottleneck. Unless waterflow is drastically different, I don't see how larger tubing would accomplish anything given the fact that there are multiple 1/4" bottlenecks in the loops.

If someone can explain to me why this is wrong, I'm sure I can return the parts for bigger pieces, but as of now, I can't see any point to it.
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Old 01-06-2011, 12:33 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Default Re: Help me build a no-price-limit watercooling system!

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If all the inlets/outlets are already 1/4" (they are), having larger tubing should have a negligible effect on waterflow. It's the reason I always chuckle at some of the car-mod people (I'm one of them) who put a fart-can muffler with a 3.5" outlet on an exhaust system with 1.5" piping, then wonder why the car is louder, but didn't gain any HP... it's because there is a 1.5" bottleneck. Unless waterflow is drastically different, I don't see how larger tubing would accomplish anything given the fact that there are multiple 1/4" bottlenecks in the loops.

If someone can explain to me why this is wrong, I'm sure I can return the parts for bigger pieces, but as of now, I can't see any point to it.
I get the sense you're mixing up a 1/4" inlet hole and the size of the threads on the parts which is universally, G 1/4". Once you receive the parts you will see exactly what I'm talking about. But this should should you the mistake you're making.

Primochill G 1/4" Threaded Barb - 1/4" ID - UV Green - FrozenCPU.com

Note that the threaded side is MUCH bigger than the small 1"4" barbed fitting. In actuality your 1/4" tubing is the tiny exhaust, and the blocks are the big 3" downpipe. Not the other way around.

(Don't say I didn't try multiple times to tell you not to go with 1/4"...)
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Old 01-06-2011, 02:03 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Default Re: Help me build a no-price-limit watercooling system!

Quote:
Originally Posted by aspire View Post
I get the sense you're mixing up a 1/4" inlet hole and the size of the threads on the parts which is universally, G 1/4". Once you receive the parts you will see exactly what I'm talking about. But this should should you the mistake you're making.

Primochill G 1/4" Threaded Barb - 1/4" ID - UV Green - FrozenCPU.com

Note that the threaded side is MUCH bigger than the small 1"4" barbed fitting. In actuality your 1/4" tubing is the tiny exhaust, and the blocks are the big 3" downpipe. Not the other way around.

(Don't say I didn't try multiple times to tell you not to go with 1/4"...)
From looking at the picture, it would seem to me that all the extra bulk on the threads end is just the threads, and the ID would still be 1/4". Back to the car analogy, my exhaust tips are 4.5" wide, but the pipes themselves are only 2.5" wide, as there is an inch of surrounding metal that is basically just for looks; it would seem like the threads are similar to the for looks part.

I'll look at them when they get here... I've got some calipers, so I'll measure both ends and see what's up. If the ID on the thread end is larger than the other end, I'll just return them and get bigger ones.
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