wooden case........

[BennyV04988]

be sure to sand it with like 500 grain and make it with different kinds of wood. like dark cherry borders and put old fashion gauges in it! like an ollllld air plane. Make a side panel window with a brassish border around it.That would be a very classy case! Good luck with it.

These are some neat gauges...
Gauges

I built my own bed thingy. It has 1/4 inch beadboard of the sides with a nice border. I've often though of how cool it would be to have an xbox or dvd player inside, sticking out flush with the siding. lol.

 

[FghtinIrshNvrDi]

Just use the round over bit on all of the corners and maybe bead the front. That'll be simple enough to not distract, but elegant enough to please the eye. I love solid wood projects...

Ryan

 

[Eagleboy]

computers are a very moder thing, and for a novelet pc, wood is great, but for me i want it to look modern and sleek, ya know?

That's... the point. Computers are sleek and modern and synthetic - wood is organic, warm, living. It's contradiction creating tension - something that is sought after in sculptures, and in this case it's easily attained so long as you do a good clean job with the woodworking.

And, whoever said said with 500 grit - that's definitely not enough. I'd go up to at least 1500 before paint.

Also consider selective staining, and maybe something like a sunburst if you have access to spray equipment.

 

[molsen]

yes Eagleboy, you know what you're talking about. I am going to use very fine grit to sand my panels, but I'm not going to sand it too much. The main features of the grain of this wood are the pit/valley-like grains that run through it like zebra stripes, very contrasty. I want to preserve that contrast as much as possible. Not sure what stain will aid with that though....

 

[BennyV04988]

haha i've been out of the shop form a few months...sorry. last i recalled we used 500 on my desk and it was slicker than snail ****.

 

[Eagleboy]

500 is really low. I'm a luthier (guitarmaker), and on final sanding before finishing, I use up to 2000 grit. Wetsanding I go up to about 8000 grit with Micro-Mesh on the final sand.

On unfinished surfaces (like the fretboard and the bridge) I go all the way up to 12K grit Micro-Mesh. It leaves about as close to a mirror sheen as you can get on wood. Fantastic!

After finishing, I use a polishing compound to get the last bit of the finish level and clean. Really great results.

Molsen: From your web page, you're using Sande? I've never heard of the wood, but it looks very similar in texture to Mahagony. If you want to have the holes in the finish where there are air pockets in the grain, finish it as-is. If you want a smooth finish, you'll need a filler-substance. However, from the mahagony guitars that I have made, I personally like the textured finish that characteristic gives.

As for stain, what color is the wood, to the best of your description? Chances are, a colored stain might be your best route (a blue maybe? A really light tint...). Try getting a cloth, getting it lightly damp with mineral water (tap water will work if you're not picky), and rubbing a small spot (5" diameter) on the wood. Wood with water on the surface appears just about how it would appear with a clear finish or lacquer on it, so given that you might not even need a stain.

 

[Eagleboy]

whoooopss

the "reply" button is right where the "edit" button is on another forum I go to. DOI

 

[molsen]

the wood color is pale, slightly peachy i guess. similar in color to some pine pieces, just less brown and less yellow. if that makes any sense, lol

I tried your suggestion of rubbing a little water on an area. I think I'll need a stain with some color in it, because the water test is too light for my preference.

-edit- the wood's "offical" color, according to a wood guide is 'light brown' Sapwood: not demarcated; Texture: medium; Grain: interlocked

 

[harry18]

well, having done some thinking im gonna use wood, but paint it and diguies it, that way i can make a totally origanal case, i think tahts what id rather do for a pc, cos the look i want hsa to be modern and sleek, not over the top tho

 

[FghtinIrshNvrDi]

500 is really low. I'm a luthier (guitarmaker), and on final sanding before finishing, I use up to 2000 grit. Wetsanding I go up to about 8000 grit with Micro-Mesh on the final sand.

On unfinished surfaces (like the fretboard and the bridge) I go all the way up to 12K grit Micro-Mesh. It leaves about as close to a mirror sheen as you can get on wood. Fantastic!

After finishing, I use a polishing compound to get the last bit of the finish level and clean. Really great results.

Molsen: From your web page, you're using Sande? I've never heard of the wood, but it looks very similar in texture to Mahagony. If you want to have the holes in the finish where there are air pockets in the grain, finish it as-is. If you want a smooth finish, you'll need a filler-substance. However, from the mahagony guitars that I have made, I personally like the textured finish that characteristic gives.

As for stain, what color is the wood, to the best of your description? Chances are, a colored stain might be your best route (a blue maybe? A really light tint...). Try getting a cloth, getting it lightly damp with mineral water (tap water will work if you're not picky), and rubbing a small spot (5" diameter) on the wood. Wood with water on the surface appears just about how it would appear with a clear finish or lacquer on it, so given that you might not even need a stain.

I guess that must be because of the wood you use? Are guitars made out of hard wood or soft wood? I've never used anything over 600 grit and this stuff is smoooooth. I don't see how 2000 grit can do anything. I've made many, many, many wood projects and never used anything higher than a 600grit wetsand.

Also, if you are using mahagony, my personal taste is something more natural and earth-toned. The deep brownish reds are way more attractive than those synthetic looking greens blues and whatnot.

Ryan