White=Water waterblock

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You heard of the White Water water block? How do we all feel about it? I was offered it in place of another waterblock I was going to get (a clearance TDX for $30) and they were going to give it to me free (less the original 30) so it saved me $18, thats if I want to get it. Does anyone know if it is 100% copper or not? Nubius, I'm looking in your direction, you know these thigns. :p
 
The Whitewater is a really good block from results I have seen, especially if you're getting it for free there's no way you can turn it down. I've only seen GPU results though so I don't know how well it works on a CPU.

Unfortunetely it's similar to the RBX with its 3 barb design and you'd need a stronger pump to use.

http://www.overclockers.com/articles692/index.asp

don't fully understand it's functions or how it works.
It's a waterblock, it's function is fairly straightforward. :p
 
Isn't the white water one of cathars designs?

BTW: Gaaras a good reference to water cooling as well.....he pretty much knows as much as me because I only started going to XS and reading most of it there a little before him...I also have a friend in town that's quite knowledgable though so that helps :p

Anywho, I think Cathar may be the original creator of that, but not 100% sure....like Gaara said it's basically the RBX.....3 barbs...microchannels even flowing the same way and impingement style nozzles....

There's various versions of the white water....the base should be copper but you'd have to find out for yourself what top they put on it...as I believe theres aluminum, derlin, and brass options and of course you dont want aluminum...

If you get a D4 or D5, or even 50z pump then I'd probably say you might want to stay with a TDX block or perhaps even go with the MCW6002 from swiftech.....if you decide to go with a powerful Iwaki pump then that white water will perform nice, but personally I think 3 barbs are a pain in the ass
 
Yeah, but if he's getting the whitewater for free he has some extra money floating around, I'd personally take the whitewater and put the money into an iwaki, you'll boast the loops overall performance.

Either way though, it's free, that's how I came about my MCW6002. :p
 
yeah, freakin freeloaders :p

If it's the aluminum top though I'd be getting another top for that as you don't want to deal with corrosion
 
Nubius said:
Isn't the white water one of cathars designs?

You're thinking of the Storm blocks. They are really nice, a little bit on the expensive side, and in extremely high demand. What is the waiting list on those? I think it's a couple of months.

Gaara, i didnt get the block free. I payed for a DD TDX block, clearance $30, but they just emailed me and told me it was in pretty bad condition and they wouldnt like to sell it to me. They told me they would upgrade me to the White Water for free. Since I already paid the $30 for the TDX, they are simply going to upgrade me for free to the White Water. It is a $48 block, and I inherently only paid $30. The thing is, I'm still not sure if it's 100% copper or not. I sent them an email, waiting to hear back from them. The website says it is aluminum topped, but that could just be the plate on the top, and not the actual block. The website didnt say either. Hopefully I will hear back form them very soon, and maybe I can get them to just give me a new TDX block or a discounted one.

If I do end up getting the White Water, with the 3 barbs, do you think I could just connect the T line to the middle barb, instead of using the T line fitting, and putting it somewhere in the middle of my system?


EDIT: Cathar DID design the White Water, originally. I think it is currently out of his hands, but it was a Cathar original. He did make the Storm series, and that is what i was thinking of and thought that that was what Nubi was thinking of, but alas, I was wrong. Cathar designed the White Water as well as the Storm Series.
 
About the T-line idea, it's an interesting idea to say the least, but I think it might hinder performance. With all that water stored right above the block I think it'd start to get hot which dumps more hot water into your loop, and it wouldn't cool as effectively.

It's better to have your reservoir at the end of the loop, where the pump can draw directly from it, but you're welcome to try.
 
Didnt think of that. The way 3 barb blocks are designed, the inlet is the middle barb and the two outer ones are outlets. The coolest water is comming in, and the middle barb is directly over the core, so that is where the new water hits. And that is also where the largest heat dump is. So, like you said, I think the water would just sit there and get all stagnant and hot. What about if I put the T line on one of the outer blocks? I dont see why that wouldnt work, and that way I also wouldnt need to get a larger pump.

About the White Water, is it 100% copper or part copper and part aluminum? I want to complete my order today, so I need to know, it is the deciding factor of whether or not I'm going to get that block.

EDIT: Aluminum topped is just what it says, aluminum topped. The block is not 100% copper, it is part copper and part aluminum. I am in talkis with them about getting a solid aluminum TDX. I sent them a nice email, hopefully it wil help persuade them into being nice back. ;)
 
EDIT: Cathar DID design the White Water, originally. I think it is currently out of his hands, but it was a Cathar original. He did make the Storm series, and that is what i was thinking of and thought that that was what Nubi was thinking of, but alas, I was wrong. Cathar designed the White Water as well as the Storm Series.
I know he designed the storm series, it's his latest ones....but yeah I was almost certain the WW was one of his original blocks because I thought I remembered it on his webpage....alas I was correct :p


EDIT: Aluminum topped is just what it says, aluminum topped. The block is not 100% copper, it is part copper and part aluminum. I am in talkis with them about getting a solid aluminum TDX. I sent them a nice email, hopefully it wil help persuade them into being nice back.
You don't want aluminum anywhere in your loop....you will just be facing corrosion issues later.....copper and brass is all you want in your loop.

But yes regarding the T-line thing, the middle port especially is where the impingement action happens, so you'd definitely not want to do that.....doing it on the outside nozzles might not hurt it as bad, but personally I wouldn't do it....run the block like it's designed
 
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