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Old 04-02-2005, 06:27 PM   #31 (permalink)
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If space really becomes an issue, just use a T-Line rather than a reservoir. A reservoir is probably the least important part of the setup, and T-Line is a lot more conservative of space and easier to put just about anywhere.
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Old 04-02-2005, 06:48 PM   #32 (permalink)
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OK, space is not an issue, and the single 5.25" will be prime choice.

I havn't changed the arrows in this to make it correct, but I "moved" the pump position. Is it better?


Now I have to post to find out whether the heatercore will fit where I have and want it on the picture, hopefully someone here has a PC-75!

Anything significantly wrong with that setup?

I am pretty much "understanding" of basic water cooling now, thanks a lot! Just a few more questions to come, but that will be left for later.

Yan
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Old 04-02-2005, 06:58 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Yan, take a ruler, and use the dimensions Weapon puts in the info, that's why he puts them there

Overall Dimensions: ~12-3/8" x 5-5/8 x 2" with the tanks


measure that out and see if it'll fit on top. That pump position would be good.
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Old 04-03-2005, 12:18 AM   #34 (permalink)
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I have a ruler, and I made a box type thing, but I DON'T have any of this equipment yet. I will know whether I am actaully going to know whether I am going to get a new computer in May at some point, it depends on many personell issues.

Thanks for all your help!
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Old 04-03-2005, 03:53 PM   #35 (permalink)
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It looks like this graph shows the MPC650 to be better, is that right?

Still going with the 50z, just wondering though.

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Old 04-03-2005, 05:36 PM   #36 (permalink)
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OK, I finally the time to actaully look at these products in detail, and now I have a few more questions.

1. What is an "accelerator nozzle"??
2. There is ID, and OD 1/2 inch fittings, and tubing, does it matter if it is ID or OD for a product like this which is OD, on an ID system? http://www.crazypc.com/Merchant2/mer...t_Code=93270UB
3. There is 1/2" x 3/4" (and x 5/8") ID and OD tubing, what does the second number mean?
4. Touching back on #2, will OD fitting work with ID water blocks and water cooling connections?
5. How many feet of tubing is good for a newb to buy? 10'?
6. Will UV dye do anything to the coolant?
Final. I have read about non conductive coolants, but I was unable to find any such thing, where can I get some (link?), and does it do anything to the cooling properties?

Thanks guys!

I hope I don't sound like "TheComputerPro" guy, (a troller? a trawler?)and am asking questions that I know the answers to, because a buddy said it looked like that.

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Old 04-03-2005, 05:58 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Accelerator Nozzle just sounds like something that would increase waterflow somehow, I honestly wouldn't concern yourself with getting one though. I'm not positive what it is though.

ID (Inside Diameter) and OD (Outside Diameter) doesn't matter that much, obviously 1/2" ID Tubing will have better waterflow than 1/2" OD. You'll obviously wanna match them wherever possible, but I'm pretty sure ID can be stretch over OD and OD can be tightened over ID.

By the second number, do you mean 1/2" that? If so, those are simply fractions. 1/2" is the same thing as 0.5" or half an inch.

Tubing length all depends on how big your case is. 7 feet should be long enough in my opinion, but tubing isn't very expensive so you can buy more if you make mistakes cutting it or you just want extra lying around if you ever need it.

Not sure about UV dye, I don't think it'll effect cooling very noticably, but I'm sure it'd be better to use as pure of a coolant as you can get.

Coolant you'll want a mix of about 90% distilled water (it won't conduct electricity) and 10% zerex (same stuff used in autoshops, prevents rust and build up of algea and other bacteria in the water).
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Old 04-03-2005, 06:44 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
It looks like this graph shows the MPC650 to be better, is that right
What you gotta look at is the head at 0 GPH not so much how far the line goes across the graph.

Although I have seen graphs where the MCP650 looks better but no one at xtremesystems will say it is.

The 'Head' is how high in the air the pump would push the water if you attached a long tube on it and just let it push water straight up it.

The higher the head the more pressure

That chart is a PQ curve which in that one says the MCP650 has a higher rate of flow but the 50z has higher head.

Quote:
Accelerator Nozzle just sounds like something that would increase waterflow somehow, I honestly wouldn't concern yourself with getting one though. I'm not positive what it is though.
Those are found on impingement style blocks which give much better performance than a normal block. With the Danger Den TDX and RBX designs it comes with these accellerator nozzles. The normal one is a tiny slit. Then nozzle 2 is like 10% bigger, 3 is 20% bigger, 4 is 10% smaller (these are meaning smaller or bigger than number 1, the standard nozzle) and 5 is a bunch of tiny holes.

If water just poured into the block, technically only the outside layer of molecules carries water, but with nozzles it's like putting your thumb over the end of a water hose. More turbulence, more molecules carrying away heat, thus more efficient for cooling. Nozzle 4 is seen as the best because 5 has a tendency to clog easily I guess.

Quote:
ID (Inside Diameter) and OD (Outside Diameter) doesn't matter that much, obviously 1/2" ID Tubing will have better waterflow than 1/2" OD. You'll obviously wanna match them wherever possible, but I'm pretty sure ID can be stretch over OD and OD can be tightened over ID.
You kind of got that a little mixed up gaara. When it says 1/2"ID that's meaning it's 1/2" tubing, but it'll always tell you what the OD our Outer diameter of the tubing as well....obviously thicker OD tubing would mean it'd be stronger and harder to break, but might be harder to move around and bend in the case.

When you look at barbs on pumps or blocks, they will say 1/2" outer diameter, because it's the barb, 1/2" OD barbs matches up with 1/2" ID (inner diameter) tubing. So when looking for tubing matching barbs ,the tubes ID must match the connections OD.


Quote:
3. There is 1/2" x 3/4" (and x 5/8") ID and OD tubing, what does the second number mean?
see my above explination, it's talking about tube thickness, the 1/2" is referring to the actual inner size which 1/2" is the biggest tubing you will want to use.


Quote:
4. Touching back on #2, will OD fitting work with ID water blocks and water cooling connections?
Again refer to above. They aren't two different things, but it doesn't matter what the barbs ID is because thats not what the tube needs to fit over, the tube needs to fit over the OUTSIDE of the barb. 1/2" inner diameter tubing fits over 1/2" OD barbs

Quote:
5. How many feet of tubing is good for a newb to buy? 10'?
10-20 feet would be good. I only say this so you have spare so incase you accidentally tear some in the process, or down the road you change your configuration or something like that, but realistically you won't have more than a few feet in the case.

Quote:
6. Will UV dye do anything to the coolant?
No I wouldn't put a whole lot in there. It'll make the cooling a little worse than a pure mixture like gaara said with 90% distilled and 10% zerex.

Quote:
Final. I have read about non conductive coolants, but I was unable to find any such thing, where can I get some (link?), and does it do anything to the cooling properties?
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/produc...&cat=63&page=1

http://www.dangerdenstore.com/produc...&cat=63&page=1

I linked both MCT-5 and -40, realistically you would just need the -5 because it means it'll still work at -5C which you won't ever get muchless -40 lol, but being that I like overkill I would get -40 anyway, buuuut it won't cool as good as distilled and zerex solution, probably a couple to few degrees difference.

I've known quite a few people who've had leaks though with the distilled and zerex, and even though the comp shut down of course, using a Q-Tip and alcohol to clean the mess and letting it dry a day, the computer still worked.
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Old 04-03-2005, 10:45 PM   #39 (permalink)
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ello'
I found an alternative, but it looks as if the MCT is better, I guess that is what I will go with, unless FluidXP is better for some reason. http://www.xoxide.com/fluidxp.html

Back to dye, will that make the non conductive fluid pointless?

Yan
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Old 04-03-2005, 10:48 PM   #40 (permalink)
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FluidXP is on dangerdens website too but I didn't link it for a reason

It's junk compared to the other to, since I don't know from experience I've asked about it before in the past from people who have used it. The MCT is much better and much cheaper.

As far as the dye, yes it's a foreign conductive liquid so yes it'll negate nonconductive properties

Best bet dude is just 90% distilled water, 10% Zerex in it, and a touch of UV dye assuming you just have to have UV dye
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