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Old 04-01-2005, 11:39 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I really don't see why noise is such an issue, I mean, who really cares if one product is rated 20db and another one 22db? As long as I get the performance and results I'm looking for at a price I think is reasonable, noise is the last thing I'm gonna be thinking about when I'm getting 800MHz+ overclocking results.
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Old 04-01-2005, 11:45 PM   #12 (permalink)
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So, I'll add the MCP650 to my list...
On dangerden, they have a heatsink designed for the 6800 Ultra, but will the work with the 512MB PCI-e version? Another thing is, that if I EVER need another card (SLI), will that heatsink work off of the same reservoir?
I plan to cool (as I said above) CPU, and Video Card(s); I will take Nubius' advice and not bother with Chipset water cooling, as a review of the board said it is pretty quiet, and what about the RAM? I guess that that is not needed?...

And mounting all the extra gear, how does that work? (Yes, I am a COMPLETE newbie about WC-ing).
Thanks!

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Old 04-01-2005, 11:53 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I have a 120MM fan on my dell crap now, and it is painful, at least thats how I feel when I am done with playing a game or two, and I am browser the internet. It bugging me now...

The thing is, the fan is rated at some 30 db, and the pump is 32-34

Hmm, going to look at the noise specs for the other one!
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Old 04-01-2005, 11:54 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Gaara - Check out www.cooltechnica.com they have the 50z for sale there. Theres a review about it down at the bottom. From all the tests I see, the MCP650 had better flow in most every test, so I don't understand why they say it's absolutely a better performer.

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On dangerden, they have a heatsink designed for the 6800 Ultra, but will the work with the 512MB PCI-e version?
I'm going to say no simply because that heatsink (assuming you mean the huge *** $125 one) was made specifically for the 6800series a while ago......BUT of course if the PCB design is the same I don't see why not.

Alternatively though you should just get the MAZE4 GPU, and get some ramsinks for the RAM if you're really concerned. The ram doesn't even get hot enough to justify that huge block for a ridiculous price that will just decrease your GPU cooling efficiency.

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will that heatsink work off of the same reservoir?
Don't understand what you mean really, the whole system runs off of 1 reservoir.

Quote:
and what about the RAM? I guess that that is not needed?...
Same with GPU ram, no point in cooling it besides using a fan blowing down on it sometimes muchless water cooling.

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And mounting all the extra gear, how does that work?
What gear specifically? heatercore and such?

Best way to do it, is put the system together outside of your case, do a leaktest for 24+ hours and then put it in your system, of course this won't be possible if you have to route the tubing outside the case.

Chances are you'd have to do some case modding unless your case is huge, like cut out some holes on top for the heatercore for the air to flow through it and have the tubing connect to it.

mainly depends on where you want the heatercore as that'll take up the most space and require actual mounting.
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Old 04-01-2005, 11:54 PM   #15 (permalink)
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If you are refering to this waterblock, don't bother, GDDR3 runs fairly cool to start with and you can just use some regular RAM sinks and they'll work fine. Using that as opposed to a strictly GOU waterblock means the water heats up more and has to go through more, thus making the overall cooling of the system poorer. Stick with MAZE4 for the GPU.

Pump > Radiator > CPU > GPU > Reservoir

That's the basic order you'll wanna put everything in. Pump basically just goes inside your case somewhere, radiator mounts onto the side of the case somewhere, water blocks go on their chips, and reservoirs seem to be mounted in drive bays. You can also use a T-Line (Seems less effective than reservoir IMO) rather than the reservoir that's basically just an extra piece of tubing that stores water. Tubing should be kept as short as possible and with as few bends as possible.

It's recommended you run the setup for about 24 hours before using it in a machine to check for leaks and such.

edit - Nubius, thanks, I'll check that out now. Seems we're both in about the same boat at the moment. =/
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Old 04-01-2005, 11:56 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
I am still thinking 6 case fans
All those will cover up that pumps sound dude. Plus that 34db is at 2 feet away so unless you have all the fans down and your ear next to the comp I doubt you'd hear it

EDIT:
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(Seems less effective than reservoir IMO)
Takes a little longer to bleed the line, and most say it's about the same to refill a reservoir as T-line, but of course a T-line with a DD Fillport would be easy to fill...personal pref and whether you have room for a good bay res pretty much.

Yeah we are pretty much in the same boat, I pretty much know what I want to get but all I get is 'NAH 50Z IS BETTER' with no real world results to back it up.
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Old 04-02-2005, 12:06 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Ah well, I can't really blame the people at xtremesystems, I'm sure if I had as much experience with stuff that they do I'd probably consider my own personal experiences as good of a source as anything else.

I pretty much have what I want decided as well, I just switched up the CPU block with a 6002. I have read elseware that the TDX works better with more pumps than the 6002, but I don't think I'll be adding any more pumps until I need to get a new block anywho, so yeah... :P
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Old 04-02-2005, 12:24 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Yeah which is weird because I've gotten responses from them saying the MCP650 and 50z ARE enough to make the TDX perform well, so I have no clue whether I want to go 6002 or not...especially considering I'd have to get the stepped base which I would then want to buy the non-stepped upon upgrading to an AMD64.

Of course there's always the Peltier route using a cold plate, dielectricl grease, pads for condensation and a seperate PSU

I was considering though, getting the TDX, and either 50z or MCp650 (geh I'll never decide) and then down the road adding another pump

I even joked to max, I might as well get the 50z, then add the MCP650 just to shut everyone up haha.

Maxxx also talks about this 'bill' guy a lot and is all wannabe buddy buddy with him so sometimes I think maxxx suggests things to go along with that bill guys word....who knows
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Old 04-02-2005, 01:24 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Thanks so much guys!

OK, so I have compiled some questions...

To start, there are a few reservoir selections.
Here is the case...
Lian Li "PC-75" Full Tower ATX Case
The way it would be setup, I would have two free 5.25" bays, and two free floppy bays.
Dual 3 1/2" Floppy Bay Reservoir
or
Dual 5 1/4" Bay Reservoir
or Single 5 1/4" Bay Reservoir
From all that, I think that the dual floppy bay reservoir would be best, because I wan't to have spare room in my 5.25" bays. I am guessing from looking at the picture that the the dual floppy reservoir has the medium storage capability, which is good, right?

GPU Blocks
For GPU cooling, >> MAZE4GPU-SLI << , thought that looks good, as it comes with the RAM sinks etc. and I can just pull the 2nd heatsink out of my tech-stuff box when/if I need it.

CPU Block
I am still quite confused in this area, TDX, RBX, MAZE4, and Peltier labled CPU blocks, what does all of it mean? Since I am not going to overclock, I managed to control my 'shiny' (says in gollum voice) addiction, and not look at the silver ones (lol). Here is the one that I though looked best (as with all this, just going by what my gut says) >> Copper TDX Block << , good choice? Also, what IS peltier?

OK, so the dilema I am having now is with the remaining two components, the pump, and the radiator. Reviews say this one is noisy, and is it the same as the Swiftech? (THINK that I read that somewhere) >> Noisy. DD12V-D4 << . This one >> Eheim 1260 << is AC, and I am guessing you guys don't like it AC, since you didn't reccoment any. Anyhow, I don't have any idea of how big that is, and I don't know whether it is supposed to be inside or outside of the case (I want inside). This one is the >> AquaXtreme 50Z-DC1 << , though it looks better, and maybe quieter? (I am open to any opinions). The last link also has a brushless motor which is good, and I didn't notice/look that with the Swiftech (another hobby, won't go there). Which?

Radiator
I am still totally clueless in this department.
Danger Den Radiators Cool Technica Radiators
By the looks of it (what my uneducated water cooling eyes can see) they are both from the same company. Any chance I could request you to look over them and select a good one?

I cannot thank both you enough, and I am sorry I have so many *stupid* questions to ask. I really appriecate your help!

Yan Booth
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Old 04-02-2005, 01:37 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Peltier - Semiconducters in a ceramic shell. You cool the hotside and the other side will get to below ambient temperatures...possible to get subzero temps (dont bother)

TDX, RBX, MAZE4 are just the different versions. TDX and RBX will perform better than maze4 easily because they are impingement style blocks (they have a nozzle under the inlet barb which makes the water spray more like a jet instead of just falling down the barb and into the block. Its like putting your thumb over the water hose, more pressure, more turbulance = more water molecules carrying heat = more efficient), Just go with the TDX design though. The RBX with it's 3 barbs will be a pain in the butt.

You want a copper block and I suggest a brass top, (although yes gaara maxxx says acetal wont ever crack, but ehh whatever, I like the thought of brass better )

Quote:
AC, and I am guessing you guys don't like it AC
Thats because AC means it will come from the current from your household wall socket and you'd need a pump relay switch and crap like that unless you wanted to just always remember to turn it on before firing up the comp.

A DC pump will turn on with the computer because it gets power from a molex connector.

Xtreme people say the 50z is quieter, so I guess go for that.

For the radiator, don't get a radiator, you want a heatercore, best bet is to go and register at xtremesystems.org and PM a guy named 'Weapon' he custom mods 2-302 1977 bonneville heatercores to fit for water cooling. Also mods it with 5/8" barbs (slightly bigger than 1/2" tubing, but tygon tubing will fit over it) he also sends a custom CNC machined shroud for the fans. This is by far the best solution. It fits two 120mm fans (I suggest the thicker 38mm fans, not the 25mm for better performance)

if you really want to go crazy you can get a 'monster core' from him lol but those are HUGE hence the name, It's 4 120mm fans and that'll defeat your quest for low noise
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