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Old 07-03-2004, 08:15 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Monster00, I have tried the fan thing and it doesnt matter, the temp change was about 1c, so its irrelevant. Next higher gpm only gives better performance when the block has a high restriction (dangerden RBS, d-tek whitewater), how ever higher gpm is not desirable when using a low restriction block (dangerden maze4), the added heat causes a rise in temps.
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Old 07-03-2004, 11:25 PM   #12 (permalink)
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i also did it too... When i modded my aquarius III, when i put the extra fan on it, it was hotter when it was a intake then exhaust.
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Old 07-03-2004, 11:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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get a "real" watercooling system and then try it, as I posted above, the aquarius III is simply a waste of money. Go with something from dangerden, swiftech or d-tek. I dont know much about it, all I know is I have tried it and the temp varied 1C. How big was your temp difference?
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Old 07-04-2004, 04:04 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I have to say that by building your own system, you will get far better results than with any kit, (though the Swiftech H2O 22501 kit is the best of the ‘kits’). It comes down to how much money you want to spend on it, and how much you want to mod your case. For the price of the Swiftech kits, you can build yourself a better system.

People have already mentioned DangerDen, they can be considered as the best providers of water cooling parts, (except their pumps, the Swiftech MCP600 is the best pump).

A good water cooling system is ~

Pump ~ Swiftech MCP600
CPU waterblock ~ DangerDen RBX/Maze4 or Swiftech MCW5002
GPU block ~ DangerDen Maze4
Northbridge block ~ DangerDen Maze4
Radiator ~ Hardware Labs BlackIce Xtreme 2
Tubing ~ Tygon 3603, 12.5mm I/D 20mm O/D
Reservoir ~ I made my own from a plastic bottle and two fittings

On the list above, I went for the Swiftech block, as it has a far better flow rate, and very nearly equal performance to the DD.



Temps are 30/31 at idle, 34/35 at full load @ 21 degree ambient.
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Aquarius 2.... performs as well as urinating in your heatsink
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Old 07-04-2004, 11:05 AM   #15 (permalink)
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the radiator you suggested is ok at best, get the double heatercore and fan shroud from the dangerden site. But othewise then that, it is a great parts list and will provide you with the best temps. Also, in my personal opinion a northbridge block is bad, too much flow restriction for too little gain.
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Old 07-04-2004, 11:27 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by SewerBeing
the radiator you suggested is ok at best
I can only speak from experience, as I have one of these in my system at the moment.

A thermal probe on the waterblock inlet, immediately after the radiator, indicates a coolant temperature that is never more than 1 degree above the ambient air temperature outside the case, with the rad dissipating the heat from an overclocked CPU, GPU and Northbridge, exactly how is anything going to improve on that?
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Old 07-04-2004, 11:29 AM   #17 (permalink)
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well I never said it was a bad rad, I said it was ok. Heatercores work better, it also largely depends what and how many fans you have on there. Of course any rad can work great if you put a lot of overkill fans on it.
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Old 07-04-2004, 11:37 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I have 2 fans running at 7 volts, so no overkill. The Blackice was designed specifically for use in PC water cooling systems, its pressure drop on the water side is virtually nothing, and it allows reasonable airflow. It’s also rated to dissipate 1580KCal per hour (6270 BTU per hour), which is really quite good.

I did look into the heater cores, but the performance gain is slight, and the HWL rad doesn’t need any shrouds etc. you just screw the fans to it, plus mounting was easier.

Anyway, lol, enough of the debate, I just felt the need to justify a ‘more than just OK’ rating for it.
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Old 07-04-2004, 11:41 AM   #19 (permalink)
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but yet its twice as expensive as the heatercore + shroud from the dangerden side, as I said its ok.
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