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Old 05-20-2006, 04:50 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default IHS Removed

Well......it was about 12:30am and I decided to remove my IHS.

Wound up taking apart a cheap single bladed bic razor and used that. The blade is VERY thin and really flimsy but as a result it cut through the silicon like BUTTA......however....it also cut through my fingers just as easily lol, and that's just the part that's NOT sharp, it's just cause it's so freakin thin.

ANYWHO, I'm booted up right now with that sucker NEKKID under the hood Full load went down by about 10C which is good. It reads the same idle though, however I'm pretty sure my thermal probe is whacked. It reads approx 38C at idle and at full load it would read 54-56C (before removal) and now it reads 44-46C.

I haven't begun to try and see if it'll OC higher, but I suppose at the very least I feel better about my current OC running cooler.

And naturally......pics





Think this may be one of the first successful IHS removals around here. I know 003 tried it but it ended up in tragedy. I haven't browsed through these forums in quite a while so if people have already done it around here, I simply never noticed.
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Old 05-20-2006, 05:05 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Nice. I read quite a few horror stories with removing the IHS, so I will not be trying it - but I love it when people say "I took a chunk of the die and it still works!" stories.

Nice temp difference if they are accurate.
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Old 05-20-2006, 05:11 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I just made sure not to cut deep and just made multiple passes at the same side instead of trying to do one big sweep and hope it went all the way through.

Also used a marker to mark a certain spot on the blade I shouldn't go past.

I don't know how people take a chunk of the core though. I mean.....the core is pretty dang far from the side and you have to go through a few transistors to hit it.
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Old 05-20-2006, 05:48 AM   #4 (permalink)
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wow i didn't realise the IHS was that shallow. so it is almost like a solid block with a very shallow recess for the die? what cooler are you using nubius? personally i wouldn't remove the IHS unless i was running watercooling.
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Old 05-20-2006, 06:05 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I'm running watercooling



That's my rig dude. Dont mind the pink water....it's part the flash and part the fact that red water used to be in there, but red water that's flushed out then refilled with fresh clear water = pink.

Quote:
so it is almost like a solid block with a very shallow recess for the die?
Pretty much. A majority of the weight of the CPU is from this thing alone. The IHS by itself probably weighs twice as much as the naked CPU. But yeah, you can't really see it, but the silicon is basically on a little 'lip' in the IHS which gives it enough room for the core to make contact and whatnot.

I also put electrical tape on top of the transistors to prevent shorting out on the water block and also protect against TIM that might get on it.

Quote:
personally i wouldn't remove the IHS unless i was running watercooling.
Theres plenty of people who do it and really I want to know your reasoning behind that. The only thing is, you should only use a block that uses the bolt through style way of holding it on like the water blocks do. If it has retention clips most suggest not using it, or the fact you'll have to mod it to make it fit right.
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Old 05-20-2006, 06:15 AM   #6 (permalink)
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its just that i don't think there would be great gains on air cooling. also the fact that i would guess something like the big typhoon i am running is substantially heavier and has to be clamped tighter than the average water block . i'd be worried about crushing the cores. however on water cooling i think removing the IHS would make a nice difference as you yourself have just proven. what block is that you've got, is it homebrew? i think that blocks like the storm would work brilliant without the IHS. where did you pull the radiator from, car heater core i presume ?

edit: i'm going to throw together a homebrew water system on a K6-II rig i threw together just for the heck of it. planning on using the heater core from an 86/87 camry as apparently they fit perfectly in a 5 1/2" bay.
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Old 05-20-2006, 06:34 AM   #7 (permalink)
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DangerDen TDX block for the CPU. No way I could make my own I wish though.

and yes that's a heatercore from a car. A 1977 bonneville 2-302 heatercore to be exact. One of the best out their as far as cooling is concerned.

But yeah, in regards to the heatsink, there are people out there with the big typhoon on a lidless CPU. People still get good gains for it regardless of it being on air. I remember seeing atleast one at dfi-street I believe because the dude was wanting to know how to mod the clips so that it'd work with the IHS removed.

I've been trying to get 2.8GHz stable and thus far no luck =/ So it looks like it'll simply be cooling down my previous clock, but no gains in speed I always miss the freakin good weeks by one. I've got a 0551 opty 165 and it's on the "AVOID" list at XS with this particular steppings. XS lists it as 2.7-2.75 at 1.55v and that's exactly what I'm doing.

Pi$$es me off beyond belief. Freakin venice capped out at 2.565GHz so I was mad about that one, and now this one on water cooling, with IHS removed will possibly only reach 2.75............WEAK
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Old 05-20-2006, 06:48 AM   #8 (permalink)
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hey for protecting the SMD components on the pcb try some silicon or conformal coating, that might be going a bit overboard but you could use it and throw on a peltier :/ that oughta keep temps down for you. i would put some small foam/rubber pads on the corners of the pcb that are the same height as the die like on the old athlon xp's just to protect it from the waterblock.
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Old 05-20-2006, 09:03 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Those temps seem high for liquid cooling. Especially a system like that. With my 3000 @ 2.54GHz my full load is 36*C on a Bigwater SE.
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Old 05-20-2006, 09:09 AM   #10 (permalink)
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The cpu can't be under room temp, so it may be 30 in there... (well it could be.) and ontop of that, the Opteron's don't have a accurate CPU temp probe.
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