Cooling system

[Overload]

Hey, building my first computer and wondering if a hydro/water coolant would be better than a copper.

And generally about coolers, is the gel you put on the cpu and cooler included with the cooler or do you have to get it seperately?

Thanks, Overload

 

[Peter.Cort]

A good high end air cooler is cheaper and can cool on par with a lot of lower end water cooling systems like corsairs h50 and h70 setup. Water cooling is more effective and quieter if you build your own loop, but it takes a decent amount of experience and is fairly expensive. All that only matters if you're overclocking or live in the desert. otherwise the stock air cooler should suffice.

the thermal paste comes with a lot of heatsinks, but it's advisable to spend an extra $3-5 on more effective thermal paste than what the manufacturer generally gives you.

 

[aspire]

Judging by your description of Thermal Paste as (That cooler gel), I'm going to go out on a limb and say water cooling probably isn't for you at the time being. Stick with a mid-range air cooler.

 

[Overload]

Ok thanks, and would you be able to suggest a cooler for Scan.co.uk: Intel Core i7 2600K Sandy Bridge *OEM* - CM8062300833908

 

[Peter.Cort]

are you overclocking?

 

[aspire]

Even if you are overclocking the Sandy Bridge chips, they aren't at all heat limited and I myself run with the stock heatsink on my 2500k up to 5.0ghz without any trouble.

 

[Slaymate]

While it is true that a lot of people overclock these new CPU's, with pretty success, with the stock cooler. I don't recommend it, an aftermarket cooler is a wise investment on an expensive new CPU.

I'm presently using the Noctua NH-D14 with my 2600K. At 5GHz and Idle my average temp is 25C-27C and at 100% load my max. core temp is 75C after 20 minutes of LinX. The problem with the NH-D14 is it covers the memory slots so don't buy memory with tall heatspreaders.

Newegg.com - Noctua NH-D14 120mm & 140mm SSO CPU Cooler

With my TRUE Copper my Idle temps at 5GHz were about the same 25C-27C but my load temps were a couple degrees higher 77C-78C.

The Corsair H70 would be a pretty good choice, it should be close to the Noctua NH-D14 in performance.

Newegg.com - CORSAIR Hydro H70 CWCH70 120mm High Performance CPU Cooler

I've read a few reviews that say this new Zalman outperforms the Noctua NH-D14.

Newegg.com - ZALMAN CNPS10X Extreme 120mm CPU Cooler with Worlds first PWM Fan Speed Controller

The Noctua NH-U12P is a little cheaper than all of the above and it should cool close to the TRUE Copper.

Newegg.com - Noctua NH-U12P SE2 120mm SSO CPU Cooler

The Thermaltake Frio is a little cheaper still but I would consider this a 4.8 GHz or lower cooler.

Newegg.com - Thermaltake Frio Overclocking-Ready Intel Core i7 (six-core ready) & i5 Compatible Five 8mm Heatpipes Dual 120mm Fans Intel & AMD Universal CPU Cooler CLP0564

or maybe the Cooler Master V6.

Newegg.com - COOLER MASTER V6 GT RR-V6GT-22PK-R1 120mm DynaLoop CPU Cooler w/ Universal bracket & Dual Fan

 

[4P_Bulldozer]

Hey, building my first computer and wondering if a hydro/water coolant would be better than a copper.
And generally about coolers, is the gel you put on the cpu and cooler included with the cooler or do you have to get it seperately?
Thanks, Overload

You can buy a pre-built cooler-chassis that avoids any hook-up, spills, gel, etc. It doesn't even use water ! it uses mineral oil. They also explain how to DIY.

Check out these guys: Mineral Oil Submerged Computer; Our Most Popular Custom PC and http://www.pugetsystems.com/mineral-oil-pc.php .

 

[patonb]

Thats not what liquid cooling really is........

 

[GhOsT1321]

The problem with "oil cooling" is that if you leave your computer on for hours (lets say 10+) and you have some heat generating components, then you now have oil that is heating more than it's cooling. Once all of the oil is warm, there will be very little circulation to cool the oil down.
Another downside would be upgrades. To upgrade, you need to drain the oil, clean all of the oil off, make sure any sockets/plugs are clean, then install the new hardware. A time consuming process.