wooden case........

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harry18 said:
well, having done some thinking im gonna use wood, but paint it and diguies it, that way i can make a totally origanal case, i think tahts what id rather do for a pc, cos the look i want hsa to be modern and sleek, not over the top tho

I think that's a fine idea. Wood is so easy to work with. find some oak pieces with very few knots in them. oak is readily available (depending on where you live), is usually relatively cheap, and is a hard wood.
 
molsen said:
the wood color is pale, slightly peachy i guess. similar in color to some pine pieces, just less brown and less yellow. if that makes any sense, lol

I tried your suggestion of rubbing a little water on an area. I think I'll need a stain with some color in it, because the water test is too light for my preference.

-edit- the wood's "offical" color, according to a wood guide is 'light brown' Sapwood: not demarcated; Texture: medium; Grain: interlocked

If you're not going to start the project for a while, try leaving the wood in direct sunlight in a room for a couple days. I have guitars on stands in my family room, and the color oxidizes - your pieces may be fresh-cut or have been stored very well, while the oxidized color might be more desirable for your needs. However, if you decide to use a stain, go for it! I'm just now getting into the staining of things.
 
FghtinIrshNvrDi said:
I guess that must be because of the wood you use? Are guitars made out of hard wood or soft wood? I've never used anything over 600 grit and this stuff is smoooooth. I don't see how 2000 grit can do anything. I've made many, many, many wood projects and never used anything higher than a 600grit wetsand.

Also, if you are using mahagony, my personal taste is something more natural and earth-toned. The deep brownish reds are way more attractive than those synthetic looking greens blues and whatnot.

Ryan
Softwoods (usually) on the top (I have been using Western Red Cedar, Adirondack Spruce, and Sitka Spruce), and hardwoods on the back (Palo Escrito, Indian Rosewood, Zebrawood, Mahagony, Ash, Sycammore, etc.)

The purpose of the higher grit sandpaper is to remove the scratches that the previous grit made in the wood. They are very fine scratches, but still noticable even above 800 grit dry. On my speakers that I painted I only did a 600 grit wetsand, but guitars are a very different project, requiring much more attention to detail (as you expect them to last 70+ years, and others will look at your handiwork much more so than a desk you made. I go to luthier's conventions every two years, and these other luthiers are JUST as anal as I am).

Another reason why such high-grit is used, it is incredibly noticible when you scratch mother of pearl or Abalone inlays on the instrument - I've seen the scratches with 1000 grit. Essentially, going so high is really just insuring that your finish is perfect and time-effective.

As for the mahagony, I only use natural water-based instrument grade lacquer on my instruments - I don't even stain. All of my mahagony is very high grade, very straight-grain, and very rich in color. I use it for back and sides, tops ocassionally, and for almost every single neck (It's a great, stable wood).
 
That reminds me of those big tv's that have a built in book-shelf and phone I had one about 20 years ago.I would use a hardwood so you could sand it down with like 3/4 inch walls.But sounds awesome.Try to make a window I think that would be awesome.And some nice LED's(white).Dang wish I had a digital camera i would show you a nice all wood 1965 skateboard I have that I re-finished and it is hardwood and is freakin awesome looking.
 
It should be maaad classy. Like a sofisticated pc with nice gold trim and tasteful wood warmth....mmmm..i want one. Start a revolution man! make a wood case company! It would definetly be unique, grab someones eye, and would clash with a nice room. But there is something VERY intriguing about wood and electronics mixed together. especially if seen through a sidewindow all lit up. :cool:
 
i like the looks of brizilian cherry.. heavy but awesome looking.. make sure to post pictures of wut the finished product looks like and try to have a step by step tut on how u did it with some pictures cause im thinking about doing this too... but the advantage for me is i work at a woodworking spiral stair comp. and i have all the tools and wool i need.. check the companies webpage out.. http://uniquespiralstairs.com it needs some wook done on the webpage but u can see wut the stairs look like that we build and they're all hand crafted... u can buy some too if u want, :) hehehehe
 
charles_scott said:
**** I have never used anything above 300 grit for my wood working projects... Only wood I will ever use is oak... So nice...


Can't really use any finer sand paper on oak anyway's or it won't take a stain properly like it should.
 
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