Ocing troubles

Status
Not open for further replies.
don't know how you're going to RMA it...it works at it's stock speed so technically theres nothing wrong with it...you can't RMA under the basis of 'it doesnt OC far enough'

It's hard to diagnose such a problem without being there myself...for all I know your PSU could be inadequate and it's +12v rail is drooping on full load.
 
Well Nubius, I think that you have solved all of my problems. I ran the test and watched my +12v in speedfan and it was falling to like 11.84. Well I have this control panel thing with my psu:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817103933

So I turned the 12v all the way up and now i am running prime95 and the 12v is at 12.1v and the test has been running for about 16min, before I got an error. But I might just have to give it a little more juice. Thanx and hopefully this solves my problems.
 
jeez, considering it's got dual +12v rails rated at 19a each I didn't think that'd be an issue unless too much juice is being sucked from one in particular....Speedfan is generally the most inaccurate monitor out there though...hell generally the BIOS's of motherboards aren't so great...multimeter is the only way to go..

My BIOS will say my +12v is at 11.89, this program called IT Smart Guardian which comes with DFI boards says it's at 11.71...I go test it with a multimeter and it shows 12.08 idle and 12.01 on full load...sooo yeah, the rails are generally off for the most part, however if you're doing better now then hell maybe that's all it needed
 
Well I may have been a little to quick to judge my success. I tryed upping the volts to 1.475v, 1.5, and 1.525. And it errored out after about 3 or 4 min. So then I tryed lowering the volts to 1.425 and it errored out in less than a minute. So I don't kno. I will try pissing with it somemore tommorrow. Cause I am getting tired and pissed off now. Thanx for all the help.

Oh, for future reference, if the vcore is too high will that cause it to run instable?
 
clear your CMOS, choose "Load & Optimized settings" save then exit the BIOS, then get back in the BIOS and change the following settings:

Chipset Voltage - 1.7v
LTD voltage - 1.4v
RAM voltage - 2.8v
CPU Startup VID - Startup
CPU Vcore 1.425
Special Vid - 113%

Use the memory divider and lets either keep the memory directly at 200Mhz or below 200MHz, we're testing the CPU after all...beyond that don't change any of the other RAM timings for now.

If you do 220MHz, the 180 RAM divider will make it 200 even, if you use the 166 divider, having 240MHz will make it 200 even...at 250HTT, you'd need to use the 150 divider which will result in like 178MHz for your RAM, but like I said for now lets see if we can't get your CPU stable.

start off at 220HTT with the 180 divider and let prime95 run for 6 hours...if it passes that, then move onto 230HTT with the 166 divider, let that run for 6 hours, if that passes move on to 240, same thing, 6 hours, if it passes move on to 250HTT with the 150 divider.....

if the 2.2, 2.3 and 2.4GHz are all stable I suggest you save them to one of the CMOS reloaded banks so that you have the last stable overclock.

At 2.5GHz you can either do the 6 hours, and bump it up to 260, or you can let it run for 12+ hours so that you know 100% that that 2.5GHz is stable...from there you could then try to bump up your RAM by using the 166 divider which I think makes it like 208MHz and get your RAM going.

Good luck
 
Alright, I cleared the CMOS and changed the settings to what you said. Right now I am running prime95, and 30min so far so good, at 220HTT. And I was looking at what I had things set to this time and what I had them at before and I didn't have the chipset or LTD voltages that high. Maybe that was my problem?
Thanx for all of your help Nubius!!
And hopefully things will work now :)
 
Alright well she passed the six hours at 220HTT, but I did have to raise the volts to 1.45 and 113%. So I went into the bios raised to 230HTT changed the divider to 166. Well it wouldn't boot into windows so I raised the volts to 1.475 then 1.50 no luck. Then the good suprise came, I guess that doing this corrupted windows. Well I reinstalled windows and tried again. Same thing so I changed the HTT back to 220 but left the divider the same. Wouldn't boot into windows. Changed the divider back and bam she booted into windows. Soo . . . any suggestions as to why this happened, is it because the ram is running slow than it should be so it is unstable with too many volts or something? I don't know, gonna try 240HTT with 5:6 so ram is running at DDR400 speeds might help. At this point I would try anything.


EDIT: Well I tryed running at 240HTT with 5:6 dividers and still wouldn't boot into windows. Maybe there is something wrong with the dividers. I don't kno. But right now I am running 1:1 at 240HTT and prime95 stable so far. (I used settings for my ram that I found previously to be memtest86 stable at 240HTT). I guess that time will tell if she really is stable.
 
because the ram is running slow than it should be so it is unstable with too many volts or something?
No...for one 2.8v isn't that much voltage, you could put it to 2.7 if it'll make you fell better but the memory doesnt seem to be the issue...well not as far as I know...have you tried running memtest86+ for like...5-6 hours to see if any errors come up?


Don't know why it'd run stable at 1:1 but go crazy once you add a divider...that's pretty strange.

Are you using the stock BIOS BTW?

You should really flash to the latest BIOS which can be found at DFIs webpage www.dfi.com

or try this one:

http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22997&page=1&highlight=704-2bta

the 704-2bta BIOS which apparently is giving everyone lots of luck...either way, either one of those will be better than the stock BIOS...don't know why I didn't think of that earlier.

http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2328

Theres the flash program.

Put that along with the BIOS .bin file on a bootable floppy....make sure the floppy is first in the boot sequence.

As soon as you see:

A:\

You just type

A:\ awdflash 704-2bta.bin /f /cc



that's of course for that 'golden' BIOS everyone is raving about..basically you type in whatever the name of the BIOS file is after you've extracted it from the zip.

the /f means to force flash and /cc is clear cmos, it's a couple triggers recommended by a couple of the DFI reps.

After you flash, go into the BIOS, Load Optimized, Save and Exit, then go back in.

PLEASE REMEMBER....if power goes off during your flash, or you botch it up in some way, you will render your board useless..
 
Actually yeah I am running the stock BIOS.
Well it was only stable for 35min with the 1:1 at 240HTT.
Appearantly I forgot to bring some floppy disks with me when I came to college so I will have to go see about buying some. And when I flashed the BIOS on my old computer it changed my physical IP address. Is this common? Cause if that is the case I will have to reregister my computer with the ResCom here at school. Which really sucks cause sometimes it takes them a day or so to get the physical IP addresses changed and i can't use the internet. So I will need the internet for the time being but i will try that out later tonight. Hopefully that will help.

Could I just put the to files on a CD and then use that?
 
I've never heard of a BIOS flash changing your IP...that'd be a new one in my book.

Aaaand as far as flashing from a CD....well...ehh honestly don't know if that's possible lol....it'd have to be a bootable CD and I'm pretty sure you can't get to a DOS prompt with a CD like you can a floppy which would be required to put in the awdflash <biosname>.bin /f /cc command

Guess you can google it up and see...however I know there are some programs to flash within windows, but I'm kind of leary of that...I used to flash in windows with my ABit motherboard because it came with it's own program and I flashed well over 20 times and it always worked..

I also have a friend who has the DFI Ultra-D board and he's only ever flashed through windows..believe he used 'winflasher' so thats an option if you're willing to try it..

HOWEVER, make 100% you put your computer back to stock and optimized settings, you don't want to flash within windows if your current settings are unstable and then you have the misfortune of it restarting or locking up midway through the flash...then you'd have to get a new BIOS chip from DFI
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom