Bitman, I am not sure if you need to unlock the multiplyers before you try changing them with an 2600xp or not. With earlier versions you did. This is how it is done. good luck.
XP Bridge connecting
As ever this is a rough guide and all the usual disclaimers apply. If you **** up anything trying the things we have suggested we can take no responsibility. Overclocking is the domain of morons and fools, very much like ourselves.
AMD have pulled a dirty trick on the overclocking world. They have made it harder to unlock their CPUs (the cads). So we have decided to knock up another guide, this time we will show you how to unlock the XP in a matter of minutes (ten to be exact). It is a simple task and provided you take a reasonable amount of care, the risks are extremely low.
First off, arm yourself with Super Glue, conductive paint, toothpick, a scalpel and some Sellotape. Isopropyl Alcohol is optional but can help if you make a mistake with the bridges (supposedly, a rubber can also get rid of it).
First point to note, is that you should not rest the CPU on a hard surface as it may cause damage to the pins, put it on a piece of sponge. Also, it is advisable to perform this operation under some strong lighting.
Quick orientation shot:
OK, let's check out the scenery.
The little black lines are where the laser has cut through the bridges, creating a recess which is the reason that XPs are a bit harder to unlock. A close up of a single bridge (just cause we can):
Our first task is to fill in this trench. Preparation is king, so spend a few minutes getting this bit right and all will run smoothly. I first started by cleaning the bridges with the Isopropyl Alcohol but there was no apparent reason for my doing so, just an obsessive compulsion! Next I took a piece of Sellotape (using scissors to cut it to make sure that the edge was straight) and covered up one set of the L1 bridges, making sure that the trench was still exposed. Then do the same on the other set of L1 bridges, with the result that both sets of gold points are covered but there is a small gap between the two pieces of Sellotape. The trench should be left uncovered and between these two pieces of Sellotape. Then spend a bit of time making sure the tape has adhered to the CPU, so that when you apply the glue, none can escape under it and get onto the gold bits. If all has gone well, it should look a bit like this:
You can see that the points are covered but the trench remains uncovered. Next, take the glue and put a drop at one end of the trenches, then take a paper clip or pin and smooth it into the rest. Once they are filled, use the pin/clip to smear the excess onto the Sellotape.
Wait for about one minute then peel off the tape, leaving a little line of Super Glue that is filling the trenches but not covering the points.
The trenches are now filled but the Super Glue has left a ridge that will inhibit the connecting of the bridges. It is easier to see at a greater magnification (well, sort of):
You can see the ridge on the bottom edge, which will make joining the bridges very hard indeed. To sort this out, take the scalpel (the sharper, the better) and begin to shave off the glue. Do not worry too much about this procedure as it is quite hard to screw it up (well, I thought so). Hold the blade at a very oblique angle and don't try to get it all off at once, just keep shaving it off until there is none left on the surface. You will be able to take the ridge away completely and be left with no glue on the top of the CPU.
The close up of the trench.
It is hard to see but the glue has gone from above the trench and you can make out the grooves left by the scalpel on the glue in the trench.
Now, the simple part. Take the toothpick, dip it in the conductive paint, then begin to join the points. Only join the point to the one it is separated from by the trench, so according to the JPEG below, join 1 to 1, 2 to 2 and so on. Do not make a connection between 1 and 2, 2 and 3 etc.
Remember that if you do make a mistake, it is no problem. You can either use the scalpel to score between the points or use the Isopropyl/rubber to get rid of the paint, it's not as permanent as I once thought. The only caveat is to use the paint and Isopropyl in a ventilated area - it will save a lot of headaches/passing out.
The final scene should like a bit like this.
Bridges four and five look a little close but there is a gap. The first three look good though! Once you have finished, try it out, just to make sure you have done it correctly. If not, re-trace the points once more and then, if it is still not working, take off the paint and start again.
I hope this dispels the rumour that these chips are hard to unlock. Now enjoy your new clock speeds.
