Seeking PSU Tutorial

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Yes Chankama, the power rating on the OCZ is the continous output, which is 450 watts, and 550 is the peak load. ;)
 
So if the RMS is 450w, what's the point of having/knowing a peak of 550w? You can only put up to 450w of components into the machine, anyway. What's that extra "possible" 100w going to do for you?
 
hmmm.. I don't know if "RMS" (Root mean square of signal) is the proper term for this here - wrt to the peak wattage and the sustainable wattage. Even tho, I've been guilty of using it now and then :). For a constant amplitude sine wave, the RMS value and peak value are governed by a constant relationship as we all know. So in that context, knowing one implies the other.

In this case, saying RMS=450 W and saying the peak voltage is 550 W is not really accurate as both WOULD relay the same information if it was the case IMO. I think what it really means is that the PSU can maintain a sustainable power output of 450 W for all time (either RMS or peak - whatever the components are measured at also, i.e. RMS or peak). Whereas, the 550 W is not really related to 450 W, but is simply the "peak" output that can be provided in an "emergency" so to speak.

While the power supply is 450 W, some people "can" have components that can go over this. e.g. 510 W. How often will a person be playing Doom 3, doing signal processing, writing to all the hard disks, running some crap with all the USB devices, AND reading some junk from the floppy disk, AND the CD Rom, while surfing the net :s.. Chances are not often. So the 510 W will not be used often. So 450 W supply would be sufficient. In the event all these events happen at once for a "little" while, the 550 W max PSU can handle it.

That's what I think.

Correction are welcome :D.
 
Just treat it like a sound system in a car, a subwoofer can only handle its peak power for a few seconds or it will damage it and the amp......
 
gaara said:


Also, as mentioned, you want good strong current on your rails, which is measured in amps. Basically, the higher the better, and you'll want a minimum of 18amps on your 12v rail (as you may have guessed your 12v rail is the most important one). The more amps, the more powerful your rail becomes and the more juice it can deliver to components faster. I would recommend at least 22amps today for anyone seriously investing in their machine however.


Remeber the 12volt rail amperage has a direct relation to the wattage,

WATTS = AMPS * VOLTS
 
just recently I had to replace a 300W PSU with a stronger 400W one
my PC would run with the 300W PSU, but it caused problems
a few times it spontaneously restarted (screen went black, and went back to the POST)
it caused lots of the files on my hard drive to become corrupt
I even had to reinstall Windows

this is why you need a good PSU
 
I should tell my story of a cheap PSU taking out a p3 systemlike apoclypises, except a p3 500 (first p3) and a much better card

Mouse, KB and monitor survived
 
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