Random reboots without BSOD
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earwicker7
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Won't a clean install need a product key? I don't think the one I have from Windows 8 would work, would it?
Windows 10 doesn't require a product key unless you buy retail.
Activation is different with the free upgrade. Once activated (which would be the case if you're still running it), Win10 generates a hardware ID hash based off of your system, and then sends that to MS. Then if you ever reinstall, you skip the product key screen, and then when connected to the internet, it will read your hardware ID hash and compare it to the one stored on MS's servers. If it matches, it will auto-activate without the need for a key.
That said, the upcoming update to Win10 (Threshold 2, next week), the process will be simplified somewhat even more if you want, and you'll be able to enter in your previous Windows key and it will use that to activate as well.
Spicy
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Reading this kills me inside as I realise I haven't updated my graphics drivers for about a year. Will this cause a problem going from then to now in one update? (AMD Catalyst Suite update)
earwicker7
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I ran the memory test overnight, and no errors.
I spent a day on the computer without using Corel Painter, and there were no crashes, so my gut feeling was that it had something to do with this, but I wondered why it hadn't occurred until recently. I then remembered that my graphics pad had recently prompted me to update the driver, so I uninstalled and then reinstalled it. So far, no crashes, so I'm hoping it was just a driver corruption error.
I spent a day on the computer without using Corel Painter, and there were no crashes, so my gut feeling was that it had something to do with this, but I wondered why it hadn't occurred until recently. I then remembered that my graphics pad had recently prompted me to update the driver, so I uninstalled and then reinstalled it. So far, no crashes, so I'm hoping it was just a driver corruption error.
earwicker7
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And of course, five minutes after I post this, it reboots again.
I'm going to roll back to the previous driver and see if that fixes it.
I'm going to roll back to the previous driver and see if that fixes it.
earwicker7
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So I was still getting a lot of random reboots during normal operation, and once while the system was starting up the BIOS.
I cleaned all the dust out of the case, and checked to make sure all of the power connections were tight. I found one connection where an extension cord had a loose pin... it wasn't entirely out of the socket, but it was enough that I think it could have lost the connection. The connection goes to the radiator pumps for my water loop, so it could have caused overheating if the circuit wasn't complete.
Since doing this, I have only had one crash... it wasn't a reboot, the computer just turned off.
I'm wondering if the occasional brownouts in my house might be partially responsible for this behavior... often, when the heater or A/C kicks in, you'll see the overhead lights dim for a moment. It's never kicked off my television or other electronics, but perhaps that's because there isn't as big of a power draw.
The obvious way to tell would be to get a UPS... here's the problem: the documentation which came with the power supply specifically said not to use them, that I need to go straight into the wall socket.
Any ideas?
I cleaned all the dust out of the case, and checked to make sure all of the power connections were tight. I found one connection where an extension cord had a loose pin... it wasn't entirely out of the socket, but it was enough that I think it could have lost the connection. The connection goes to the radiator pumps for my water loop, so it could have caused overheating if the circuit wasn't complete.
Since doing this, I have only had one crash... it wasn't a reboot, the computer just turned off.
I'm wondering if the occasional brownouts in my house might be partially responsible for this behavior... often, when the heater or A/C kicks in, you'll see the overhead lights dim for a moment. It's never kicked off my television or other electronics, but perhaps that's because there isn't as big of a power draw.
The obvious way to tell would be to get a UPS... here's the problem: the documentation which came with the power supply specifically said not to use them, that I need to go straight into the wall socket.
Any ideas?
I've never seen that recommended before...what kind of PSU are you using?
earwicker7
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Silverstone ST1500 1500W
I just reread the manual for the first time in years... my memory is a bit off. What it said was to not plug it into an extension cord, so I somehow extrapolated that into, "It has to go directly into the wall socket."
I should probably look at a UPS... any idea what to look for?
