Attn: Electricians and Home DIYers - Part II

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Jayce

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So.. I see my thread a few pages back was locked, so I figured I'd start another to seek out help of what I found to be a decent pool of TF'ers who know their stuff outside of the tech realm. I'm rerouting all of the wiring in the bathroom since the bathroom is gutted. Nothing is in it but the 2x4 walls. No drywall, no tub, no sink, toilet, you name it, it's out.

Previously the setup was like this. You walk in, immediately on right, two light switches. One for vanity light, one for shower light. None GFCI. The shower is also on the right, and these switches were definitely too close for comfort to the water area. Walk further in, sink and vanity on right just beyond the shower. Light above sink, controlled by one of the switches at the door. Outlet on wall by sink, which contained a single 2 prong outlet and a sideways light switch right there in one unit. This light switch controlled the fan.

My goal is to have both lights wired together. There's no sense in having them split up because the lights aren't super bright to begin with. So I want both lights together on 1 light switch, and the fan on its own light switch. So, 2 light switches, 3 devices (2 lights 1 fan). Then with the outlet at the sink, convert it to GFCI.

My plan was to link everything off of the GFCI so everything else on the chain is protected. On the back of the GFCI outlet there are 2 pairs (2 black 2 white) of slot ports for the wiring. So, I decided to hook it up accordingly.

GFCI Load = main line coming from breaker.
GFCI Port 1 = light switch A (for lights)
GFCI Port 2 = light switch B (for fan)

Here's the catch. If I leave the fan out of it, the lights work fine and predictably. No issues. Once I add the fan and light switch B in the mix, it fouls up and the GFCI outlet sits in a continual reset mode, even if I reset it several times. It just sits there with a red light on it lit up. I tried switching the ports the fan was using vs the lights, but I had no dice. Just to highlight, if I go back and only let the lights in the mix, it works fine.

I know this may be incredibly hard to follow, but I figured I'd give it a shot. Any insight based on what I described? All help is appreciated!
 
You can get an exhaust with a light built in and use a GFCI circuit breaker at the electric panel to power the lights, fan and outlets. Those GFCI outlets are a pain to deal with
 
Yha I'm with joe, the fan probably has its own, and 2 gfci's can't be together else they fight.

Also remember your switches MUST be a minimum distance from any water source, like the shower. Check your codes.
 
Yha I'm with joe, the fan probably has its own, and 2 gfci's can't be together else they fight.

Also remember your switches MUST be a minimum distance from any water source, like the shower. Check your codes.

I put the switches outside of the room. :) It was the only way I could position the switches safely and not have them 3/4 of the way on the inside of the room.

The fan and light are already purchased, and we're hurting, bad, with this renovation. Spending 50 more bucks is THAT much of a problem that I just can't wing it. When you say the fan likely has its own, how can I tell? It was one of the cheapest fans we could find... Does it even make sense to add light switches onto GFCI outlets to protect them as well? Or is that mostly just for receptacles? Keep in mind the only receptacle in this situation is the GFCI outlet itself.
 
RTFM Dude RTFM ;) I do know there are 2 types of exhausts.. Dry zones and use in "Wet" zones. I'd ASSuME the wet would be protected.

I honestly don't know about wether or you should gfci the lights too.

Honestly, i think its ot needed due to why you gneed a GFCI.. Lights don't move so they should be out of electrocian regions anyway.
 
When I was working with my dad, we went to fix some electrical problems of a diy installation. They wired up the hot water heater weird so every time you used the shower or sink you got small doses of electrical shock. haha
 
RTFM Dude RTFM ;) I do know there are 2 types of exhausts.. Dry zones and use in "Wet" zones. I'd ASSuME the wet would be protected.

I honestly don't know about wether or you should gfci the lights too.

Honestly, i think its ot needed due to why you gneed a GFCI.. Lights don't move so they should be out of electrocian regions anyway.

So... You're assuming that I didn't bother googling, eh? All links are purple on my search my friend. ;)

What I had trouble with was finding out whether or not I can run the lights off that outlet. I spoke with a few people today who said no, only run outlets off of a gfci.

The best option now looks to be to get a junction box and mount it in the wall. Instead of main power going to gfci outlet and feeding the lights and fan from it, instead have main power come in the junction box, gfci goes out on its own and lights and fan go out on their own too. That looks to be the best and easiest option right now. That way gfci is on its own without any lights or fans bugging it, meanwhile, they all work independently too
 
In Australia it's mandatory to have a RCD (our word for GFCI :p) on all power and lighting circuits, not sure about the US. There's nothing wrong with running the lights off that outlet, in fact I'd say it's recommended.

If the fan is tripping, make sure it's connected only to the RCD and not part of another circuit too.
 
In Australia it's mandatory to have a RCD (our word for GFCI :p) on all power and lighting circuits, not sure about the US. There's nothing wrong with running the lights off that outlet, in fact I'd say it's recommended.

If the fan is tripping, make sure it's connected only to the RCD and not part of another circuit too.

I wonder if the GFCI in the US differ from the RCD's you have there. The more people I talk to, the more people who say don't put lights on GFCI... At any rate, we'll likely be going the junction box route, as I think it makes the most sense. That way GFCI is on its own leg and won't get interfered by the light line or the fan line. It's all the same amount that was on the wiring before, so it shouldn't be any more/less of a load when you add in the junction box. It should just simplify the way things are wired.
 
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