New motherboard problem....DFI LP.

[PP Mguire]

My first S939 board happened to be a DFI Lanparty nF3 Ultra. The 939 board with the AGP slot. It worked great and then I boxed it years ago when I won a 7950GT and upgraded to the SLI-DR. I left my trusty 3000+ in the socket, slipped it in the anti-static bag and put her in storage.

Today I dig it out just to mess around with it and an X2 3800+. For some dumb reason no matter what I do the thing wont power on. I stripped it down to mobo box, PSU, and video card. When I flip the PSU switch on the red LED on the bottom of the board comes on indicating 12v power. When I push either the power button or the built in power button nothing happens. I've tried all kinds of things including checking the board over for damaged or blown caps. There appears to be no damage at all to the circuitry of the board yet no dice. Any ideas?

 

[PP Mguire]

I've noticed that these 3 caps in the corner get real hot to the touch when the power is on.

 

[Slaymate]

have you tried it with the old cpu? It may need a flash.

 

[PP Mguire]

Yea I did. Tried both CPU's in SLI-DR to make sure they are ok and everybody checks out. I had it flashed to the latest before I put it away and I think that is still the latest bios for the board. I think those caps getting real hot has something to do with it, but I'm not so good on that kinda stuff.

 

[Slaymate]

I bet you could find new caps pretty cheap, if it still doesn't work your only out a few dollars.

 

[PP Mguire]

I don't have a soldering iron though =/

 

[Digerati]

When I flip the PSU switch on the red LED on the bottom of the board comes on indicating 12v power.

Not quite right. When you flip the PSU switch (assuming you mean the master power switch on the back of the PSU) that enables the ATX Form Factor Standard required +5Vsb standby voltage, and NOT +12V. Only after you signal the PSU to start by pressing the computer's front panel power button does the PSU to fire up the full +5V, +3.3V and the +12V rails.

Did you remount a CPU fan when testing this board? Did you use a proper layer of TIM (thermal interface material)? What is the board sitting on?

 

[PP Mguire]

Not quite right. When you flip the PSU switch (assuming you mean the master power switch on the back of the PSU) that enables the ATX Form Factor Standard required +5Vsb standby voltage, and NOT +12V. Only after you signal the PSU to start by pressing the computer's front panel power button does the PSU to fire up the full +5V, +3.3V and the +12V rails.

Did you remount a CPU fan when testing this board? Did you use a proper layer of TIM (thermal interface material)? What is the board sitting on?

Either way, it's a standby light still indicating the board has power. That is the whole point of that LED being down there according to DFI-Street.

The board is on the mobo box after giving the same symptoms inside the case. I don't exactly see the point in knowing about the HSF when there is no power going through the board. For all it's worth, the HSF is fine.

 

[Digerati]

Either way, it's a standby light still indicating the board has power. That is the whole point of that LED being down there according to DFI-Street.

My point was, just because the light it lit, it does not mean the PSU is working correctly. It only means the +5Vsb is present. The light is actually a warning to remind users to there is power so they do not do something like remove or insert RAM, a card, or the CPU with power present as that can destroy the devices.

Replacing the caps may not help. Excessive heat indicates too much current in the "circuit". It does not indicate the caps are the cause. Something else could be short, or near short causing the excessive current.

I don't exactly see the point in knowing about the HSF when there is no power going through the board. For all it's worth, the HSF is fine.

If you don't want to provide requested information, that's up to you. It only delays you getting the help you seek.

That said, if you don't have the heatsink properly mounted and the HSF connected (1) the CPU can fry in about 2 seconds. (2) Most chipsets (BIOS) will sense no fan and shut down - hopefully before the CPU fries.

 

[PP Mguire]

This board is for enthusiasts so not turning on due to no CPU fan would be pretty ridiculous. Fan controllers and bling where all the rage back when this board was king but I know for certain it's fine. PSU is fine too and I tested the board on my other 2 working PSU's and still nothing. Caps still get hot after turning those PSU's on as well. Just gonna say this board is beyond fixing and pack her back up in storage and try getting my nF3 250GB back.