Hey, new to the forum. I am working a summer job and all the money $1,700 - $2,000 will be going towards a new gaming pc. I want to be able to run battlefield 3 at max. (thats my benchmark at the moment as that is prob this generations crysis. I have thought about waiting for the kepler series (gtx 680) but I do not know how long that will be. Will someone please show me a build that will put my money to its full potential. I would like to buy everything from newegg.com
New Gaming PC
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Yerfdog
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$1700-$2000, eh? Want to max Battlefield 3? Let me see what I can find...
CPU: Newegg.com - Intel Core i7-2600 Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I72600
GPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...tx_560_ti_superclocked-_-14-130-651-_-Product
RAM: Newegg.com - G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL8D-8GBXM
HDD (Main storage): Newegg.com - Western Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive (Caviar Black is faster than Caviar Blue from what I've heard)
SSD (OS): Newegg.com - Kingston SSDNow V100 Series SV100S2/64GZ 2.5" 64GB SATA II Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) (SSDs are extremely fast, but expensive, so it's best to get a small one to use for your OS, instead of main storage) (Also, wait for someone else to say if that's a good SSD, I don't have much experience with them)
Disc drive: If you want blu-ray, if you don't want blu-ray.
Case: Newegg.com - NZXT Phantom PHAN-001RD Red White Finish w/Red Trim Steel / Plastic Enthusiast ATX Full Tower Computer Case (Looks cool, doesn't it?
)
Mobo: Newegg.com - ASUS P8P67 LE (REV 3.0) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
PSU: Newegg.com - CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W ATX12V v2.2 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply (If you plan on Crossfiring down the road, you'd probably want a PSU stronger than that, but that GFX card is plenty strong for BF3).
I think that would cost less than $1200 before taxes.
I edited it because I found out that the 6970 and GTX 560 Ti get around the same performance (at least in Crysis Warhead), and the GTX 560 Ti (Superclocked) was about $100 less.
CPU: Newegg.com - Intel Core i7-2600 Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I72600
GPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...tx_560_ti_superclocked-_-14-130-651-_-Product
RAM: Newegg.com - G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL8D-8GBXM
HDD (Main storage): Newegg.com - Western Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive (Caviar Black is faster than Caviar Blue from what I've heard)
SSD (OS): Newegg.com - Kingston SSDNow V100 Series SV100S2/64GZ 2.5" 64GB SATA II Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) (SSDs are extremely fast, but expensive, so it's best to get a small one to use for your OS, instead of main storage) (Also, wait for someone else to say if that's a good SSD, I don't have much experience with them)
Disc drive: If you want blu-ray, if you don't want blu-ray.
Case: Newegg.com - NZXT Phantom PHAN-001RD Red White Finish w/Red Trim Steel / Plastic Enthusiast ATX Full Tower Computer Case (Looks cool, doesn't it?
)Mobo: Newegg.com - ASUS P8P67 LE (REV 3.0) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
PSU: Newegg.com - CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W ATX12V v2.2 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply (If you plan on Crossfiring down the road, you'd probably want a PSU stronger than that, but that GFX card is plenty strong for BF3).
I think that would cost less than $1200 before taxes.
I edited it because I found out that the 6970 and GTX 560 Ti get around the same performance (at least in Crysis Warhead), and the GTX 560 Ti (Superclocked) was about $100 less.
MindoverMaster
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No 2600K, Yerfdog? Why not a Sabertooth? I'd rather go with a CM HAF model, but whatever.
Yerfdog
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Hm, good point. And, sorry, got that price wrong, it'd be under $1300, not under $1200 (I forgot to put the blu-ray drive into the equation).
The 2600k would only be about $15 more. Newegg.com - Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I72600K
And, yeah, the motherboard looks like it'd probably be better. Newegg.com - ASUS SABERTOOTH P67 (REV 3.0) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
And, yeah, I guess the HAF's would be a bit better. I guess I let that case's fancy lookin' design distract me a little. HAF 922, $90 after rebate, HAF 942, $180 after rebate. If I was in the same position, I'd probably go with the 942, I think.
With those changes, it'd total to about $1340. Then the rest of your budget would be open for monitors, keyboard, mouse, speakers, the OS, etc.
The 2600k would only be about $15 more. Newegg.com - Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I72600K
And, yeah, the motherboard looks like it'd probably be better. Newegg.com - ASUS SABERTOOTH P67 (REV 3.0) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
And, yeah, I guess the HAF's would be a bit better. I guess I let that case's fancy lookin' design distract me a little.
HAF 922, $90 after rebate, HAF 942, $180 after rebate. If I was in the same position, I'd probably go with the 942, I think.With those changes, it'd total to about $1340. Then the rest of your budget would be open for monitors, keyboard, mouse, speakers, the OS, etc.
MindoverMaster
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You never know, man. The 2600k is only a little more than the 2500k. just for bragging rights?
Yerfdog
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Your choice to leave but you have only heard from two out of thousands. Some tend to focus a bit too much on solely perceived performance without checking real world benchmarks, but we usually try to give the best bang for the buck.
I would shoot for the 2500K instead of the 2600K. Call me cheap but $100 for a minor increase is nuts.
I am always for a single card versus two. Call me old school buy one card will not have any headaches that SLI can bring about.
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