The Water Cooling Saga begins!

[Sean W.]

ive heard that a " T " line makes bleeding a pain in the butt...

you can get a Swiftech miro res Rev 2 for like $15 bucks... id do that instead of a T line

 

[S0ULphIRE]

Ok, I didn't even know going without a res was an option. Can someone do a quick example sketch of the layout or how that'd work?
edit: also, what's this bit for? http://www.gammods.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_266&products_id=2251

edit edit: oh they kinda work together hey...hmmmm. Still not getting how they'd work though or to what purpose.

 

[Sean W.]

basically a T line is like a res, its a " T " fitting that you put in the line before the pump that you run a good length of tubing from, about 12 inches or more and you put a cap on the end, and that is basically your Reservoir. personally, i think it looks horrible and there is no excuse for it unless you are looking to build a loop for dirt cheap.

and you want to get all the right main parts, because you will be able to use those in many many builds in the future. get good quality parts now, dont skimp on parts, and they will serve you well for a long time.


here is what a setup with a T line would look like.
basically that bit of tubing that goes verticle is obviously bendable, so you would try to bend it and hide it so it cant be seen, like shove it in the hard drive cages for example

 

[S0ULphIRE]

aaaah ok, thanks that makes sense lol.
So where did this part come in to it all then?EK-DDC X-TOP V2 - G1/4 White Acetal [EKDDCXTop2WA] - $32.05 : GAM Mods, PC Water Cooling and Modding Supplies

 

[Sean W.]

mmm, the only thing i can think of that would be used for is the pump has 1/2" barbs, take the factory pump top off ( which has the molded barbs that arent removable ) and put that on so you can use any size barbs ( and ultimatly any size tubing ) you want...

thats the only thing i can think of that it could be used for.... and it looks like it can house 2 LEDs... thats kinda fun

now go reply to my PM

 

[S0ULphIRE]

Sorry, was watching a movie replied.

 

[S0ULphIRE]

Well, done my research now. I think I will end up going with the T line. Apparently it gives you slightly better pressure/flow-rate. Also I figure it'll be easy enough to run it all the way up to the fill port on top of my case. You wouldn't be able to see the res in the case anyway, so looks are out too.
Not too concerned with the more difficult bleed, I know enough about physics to know how to get air out of a few tubes


edit: ok so I noticed the pump has 3/8" barbs. oh! So that's what that top is for! OH! And it replaces the standard black top on the DDC pump! Lol, what a revelation! And the top hole is the intake, side hole is the output?

FINAL PARTS LIST UPDATED!!!

 

[aspire]

edit: ok so I noticed the pump has 3/8" barbs. oh! So that's what that top is for! OH! And it replaces the standard black top on the DDC pump! Lol, what a revelation! And the top hole is the intake, side hole is the output?

Yep! Good on you for doing your research. I have to say that Gammods site is pretty spartan when it comes to specifications and item descriptions.

All told the loop looks a lot better than when you first started lol. Grats.

Do note that you still require some kind of clamp to prevent tubes from popping free. I like my Worm Drives for the sake of sheer indestructibility.

 

[Sean W.]

i use 2 zip ties on each barb to keep them on...
remember SouL, dont use any dyes or additives other than PT nuke, if you want your loop to be a certian color, get that color tubing.
i dont like worm drives because they can hurt the tubing.

 

[S0ULphIRE]

Thanks, yeah I don't give a **** what it looks like so long as it cools well so happy!

edit: aw crap, all their pesticides are sold out.

Ordering this friday! Woot! 48 hours to go!