Well, it is almost done...

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Hey thanks for the feedback, this is only phase two of a planned 4 phases(next are touch-ups to the paint job, shaving contours into the foam strips, minor cable/wire adjustments, as well as using clear UV reactive paint(non-aerosol) to spice up the components). The tubes do stray a little bit due to the free-floating gpu block, but I only taped them to keep them out of the way when I was laying the insulated foam. These were the airboxes I picked out Tecnofront AirBox 120 - Acrylic - FrozenCPU.com . they didnt look too bad, but the bottoms and tops were mixed and matched between clear acrylic, and what looked like quickly machined greenish plexi-glass. I'll be so glad when I get a work-bench, garage, and tools....so I'm no longer limited by anything except my imagination. What I would like to do is find a couple of custom hole-punchers(with designs) and some UV reactive shrink tubing ( obviously larger than the loop tubing), punch some design patterns in the shrink tubing, and sleeve the loop tubing in such a way as to provide a cool looking contrast under a UV light.
 
Or just get some black sleeving with the designs on them and shrink them on UV reactive tubing, that way it has the appearance of black tubing with lit designs glowing on it. I am having my rad serviced, so sorry it'd taken longer than I planned.
 
Here is what I have done so far. I have two rads now(stacked) and my temps are amazing. I still have a long way to go to make this look nice. First on the agenda is finding some longer mounting brackets for the rads on the back so I can remove and store the airboxes (they made almost no difference).
 

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Hey thank you Guttzu...I'm running into an issue finding suitable mounting brackets for the rads that are longer than the stock brackets. Any suggestions? They need to be at least 1.5 to 2 inches in length from one end to another. I called up Silverstone today to inquire about such brackets, and the rep informed me that they currently have no parts to offer me, however there was some good news....they are working on the RV03.... I hope it is similar in outer styling to the RV01 with the inner chasis improvements made on the RV02. One can dream.... :p
 
Alright, I changed out all the tubing again from the Tygon non-porous 1/2"ID, 5/8 OD soft tubing to Feser clear 1/2"ID, 3/4 OD tubing. That Tygon soft tubing was absolutely a nightmare for anything that wasnt a straight path, it kinked horribly in ways that I never knew tubing could kink. I also followed the advice of Apokalipse and uncluttered the loop and changed some fittings...thanks Apokalipse.
View attachment 3948UV light.jpg

I replaced one of the rads for a Swiftech 320 stackable rad, stacked them, and put a protective grill on, and I picked up some XSPC rad mounting brackets, and they work like a dream, giving me better stability, and more space between the rads and the case to better run my tubing.
Back grill.jpg

I also ran a black sleeved PWM extension for the side fan so that the connection is completely concealed open or closed and connection/disconnection is so much easier.
Fan wire.jpg

I'm definitely going to get another HD 5970, put it on water, and crossfire it.
 
I found a post covering how to fix the "Sorry, this tool is not supported on you graphics card" error, when attempting to launch the Sapphire Redline Overvolting utility Sapphire's RedLine breaks on 64-bit due to compile error - Within Windows . I chose the Hex editor route, and have made a diagram with the steps simplified by pictures. Once you have the XVI32 program downloaded and installed....(It works now)

step1-1.jpg
 
To anyone with experience in PSUs, what does this sound like to you? The PSU will power up, and instantly power down if I have anything plugged into the Molex plugs. It worked fine until I turned it off two nights ago, and tried to turn it back on. It is a low tier PSU so I kind of expected it to happen sooner or later. It worked with everything overclocked for about six months. It's a 1000w Xion gamer Series. I guess what I'm trying to ask is if rails can fault individually.
 
I revived the beast. Turns out that it wasn't a faulty PSU after all, but poor wire shielding/ wear and tear on the inverter module power cord for the cold cathodes. It was nigh invisible and I needed really bright light to see where it was grounding at. So all in all, I am happy...the PSU did it's job of protecting my components. Very surprising considering that the manufacturer is Xion.
 
It's looking really SWEET :thumbsup:

Cathode tubes can be a pain in the arse but they do lite up a case well. I switched to LED fans instead, they don't lit things up as well but they don't shut the whole system down either.
 
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