Water cooling just installed!

[aspire]

Looks good man.

I like how I can see my name on your buddy list in the screen cap.

Pink coolant ftw!

Need some pics of the whole thing together and running.

And no thanks for helping you? Pshhh.

Next time...

 

[slvrstang]

Looks good man.

I like how I can see my name on your buddy list in the screen cap.

Pink coolant ftw!

Need some pics of the whole thing together and running.

And no thanks for helping you? Pshhh.

Next time...

Haha, thanks for all the help. I pretty much got everything exactly how you told me to. (except for the D5 instead of the 3.2

 

[BongWizard]

hey aspire... im thinking of building a new loop some time and im pretty set on these components, but have a look and tell me if there's anything you'd change

Danger Den D5 12V pump, Swiftech MCR-320 rad, D-Tek FuZion V2, XSPC Razor 4850 (will add a second when i've got the cash), 3 Yate Loon D12SH-12 fans, D-Tek Liquid F/X Alien Green UV Dye, Swiftech MicroRes Hi-Flo res, D-Tek 1/2" Nylon Barbs, D-Tek 1/2" Nylon Y-Splitters, ClearFlex 1/2" tubing, some standard hardware store #5 hose clamps and, of course, Arctic Silver 5 on the blocks... plus i might add in a custom temp sensor and flow meter

let me know what you think... im trying to avoid the tline thing, because i know i'll end up draining it quite a bit, and i know that a res fills wicked faster than through a t

 

[slvrstang]

hey aspire... im thinking of building a new loop some time and im pretty set on these components, but have a look and tell me if there's anything you'd change

Danger Den D5 12V pump, Swiftech MCR-320 rad, D-Tek FuZion V2, XSPC Razor 4850 (will add a second when i've got the cash), 3 Yate Loon D12SH-12 fans, D-Tek Liquid F/X Alien Green UV Dye, Swiftech MicroRes Hi-Flo res, D-Tek 1/2" Nylon Barbs, D-Tek 1/2" Nylon Y-Splitters, ClearFlex 1/2" tubing, some standard hardware store #5 hose clamps and, of course, Arctic Silver 5 on the blocks... plus i might add in a custom temp sensor and flow meter

let me know what you think... im trying to avoid the tline thing, because i know i'll end up draining it quite a bit, and i know that a res fills wicked faster than through a t

That all looks good to me, but I'd suggest a fan controller for the D12SH-12s. They're pretty loud at max speed, they're nice and quiet at about 80% though.

 

[aspire]

hey aspire... im thinking of building a new loop some time and im pretty set on these components, but have a look and tell me if there's anything you'd change

Danger Den D5 12V pump, Swiftech MCR-320 rad, D-Tek FuZion V2, XSPC Razor 4850 (will add a second when i've got the cash), 3 Yate Loon D12SH-12 fans, D-Tek Liquid F/X Alien Green UV Dye, Swiftech MicroRes Hi-Flo res, D-Tek 1/2" Nylon Barbs, D-Tek 1/2" Nylon Y-Splitters, ClearFlex 1/2" tubing, some standard hardware store #5 hose clamps and, of course, Arctic Silver 5 on the blocks... plus i might add in a custom temp sensor and flow meter

let me know what you think... im trying to avoid the tline thing, because i know i'll end up draining it quite a bit, and i know that a res fills wicked faster than through a t

For an MCR style rad High speed fans wont give you any gains as the rad is optimized for low speed performance.

MX-2 outperforms AS5

Dye's and coolants are terrible, nothing outperforms pure distilled water with some biocide added.

Flow meter is useless and will only restrict flow.

Why would you use nylon barbs? Go for Bitspower/Danger Den Fatboys.

 

[slvrstang]

Higher fan speed will help, it's just not a linear gain.

At an average heat load of 235w, the 3000rpm scythe gives almost a 4* difference on water temps over the slower D12SM yate @ 1000rpm. I still say go with the D12SH's and get a fan controller for when you don't really care about 4*.

 

[aspire]

I can guarantee the difference will not be 4C...

Martin did some great testing but I'm gonna have to say those are severely inflated numbers.

With such a low heat load, 235W is nothing for a triple rad, moving more air through isn't going to drop your temps as much as if you had a saturated rad.

 

[BongWizard]

i thought i read somewhere that swiftech mcrs where design for near silent performance... the only reason i wanna use the high speed yateloons is the fact that when i bought my case i swapped out the standard fans for yateloons, and i figure i can whack the stock fans back in the case and use the yates for WC... considering low speed yates are the same price as high speeds, i'll probably just grab a variable resistor and use it as a fan controller

i've heard MX-2 performs slightly better, but i haven't found a shop in Australia that sells it, but everywhere has AS5

the flow meter and temp sensor where really more of a dream... im not too keen to pay $30 for each of them, and i was thinking i could build something similar for $10... but im just too lazy these days, so that was out as soon as i thought about it

would adding a few mL of uV reactive dye make that much of a difference in the thermal conductivity of the overall fluid? i didnt think it would make a noticable difference... if it does, what kind of biocide would you recommend?

also, i chose nylon barbs because that avoids the possibilty of galvanic corrosion of the connectors and blocks (cuz i think those ones you mentioned are chrome, right?)... i know its a relatively slow process... but running this thing with a high flow rate 24/7 will certainly expedite it

 

[aspire]

would adding a few mL of uV reactive dye make that much of a difference in the thermal conductivity of the overall fluid? i didnt think it would make a noticable difference... if it does, what kind of biocide would you recommend?

also, i chose nylon barbs because that avoids the possibilty of galvanic corrosion of the connectors and blocks (cuz i think those ones you mentioned are chrome, right?)... i know its a relatively slow process... but running this thing with a high flow rate 24/7 will certainly expedite it

UV reactive dye will coagulate and gunk up your blocks. Avoid it.

If you want to have glowing W/C use Feser UV Tubing.

For biocide any aquarium grade stuff will do.. Petras sells some good stuff for like 2.50...

Barbs are all Nickel Plated Brass and will not lead to galvanic corrosion. Trust me on this, metal barbs will not cause corrosion.

 

[Poizen22]

um wow with those temps push for 4.0