temperatures

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I'm using Arctic Silver 5. I couldn't get my over head fan to reverse (screws were self thread i think, but even then, getting them back on normally was hard), but I did turn the little fan switch to high and now (after 30minutes of on time) its idling at 39C by RealTemp (my max has been 41C).
So i guess its just being in an already hot climate, but I'm going to play some games and watch the temp just to be sure.

On another note. I rolled back my CPU to standard clock speeds (2999.7 Mhz), but I've been hearing alot about how well the E8400 OCs. How hard would it be to OC mine to 3.5Ghz? I tried to OC it a little in my BIOS, but my ram (2x2GB Mushkin 1066) rolled down the 667Mhz.
 
Just after playing Left4dead for bout an hour
realtemp reads it at 44C whereas coretemp told me 51C.

No overclock.

EDIT:
I OCed the bus speed to 340 so i'm running at 3.5Ghz, and the temp is still at 43C...

So if you were just in a game for an hour, it should be a bit lower than 44C regularly, so you should be okay, considering the slight overclock.
 
If you have stock hsf, get a real heatsink.

By top fan...... Do you mean the top of case fan? or top fan in thhe front?

My 900 sucks in the front and shoots out the top and back.
 
top fan should ALWAYS be exhaust (remember, hot air rises), back is usually exhaust (ATX standard), front should be intake (because the cold air will be on the floor) and the side fan (if you've got one) can be either, depending on what card you've got (for single slot coolers it should be exhaust, for dual it should be intake)

i always use CoreTemp 0.99.3, because it reads the actual temperature diode within the CPU, not the thermistor located below the socket... 51C is quite hot if you're running stock... make sure you haven't got too much thermal paste between the CPU and heatsink (because this stuff is really not that conductive... compared to the sink)... also you could consider lapping the sink and the CPU itself to help with conductive cooling
 
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