--An interesting 3850 vs G92 GTS Comparison--

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Merkwürdigliebe;1321944 said:
Meh, whatever floats your boat - I still stand by my GTS - I play TF2 with 16QAA and 16xAF and get about 80-90 fps - plus, if my card screws up from the voltmod, I can always remove it and there's almost no way they can figure it out

pencil mods aren't permanent either, they wear off over time

yeah i play at the same settings at 1920x1200 and get around 60-70fps. Merk, will that volt-mod on your gts work on a gt?

but i guess its nice to hear benchmarks are just benchmarks.. and its all about in-game that counts.
 
yeah i play at the same settings at 1920x1200 and get around 60-70fps. Merk, will that volt-mod on your gts work on a gt?

but i guess its nice to hear benchmarks are just benchmarks.. and its all about in-game that counts.

It's apparently very similar, the only thing is you might need to do an OCP mod if you plan on going to higher voltages. I'm not entirely knowledgeable about this, but I've been told that the GT runs on two-phase cooling and the GTS on the three-phase. All this means is that when you do the vmod on a GT, after a certain point, you're going to have to this OCP mod which replaces resistors and is rather complicated. It's meant to protect your card I think if ever the voltage increases higher than its supposed to. This mod is apparently not necessary for a GTS though.
 
I know i paid too much for my GTS SLI rig, but if what i'm hearing coming down the pipe from Nvidia is true, i wont need to upgrade anytime soon. I need to figure out what the max overclock on the GTS is though. Is there a voltmod for the g92 that isnt permanent in case i ever have to rma the card?
 
Merkwürdigliebe;1322034 said:
It's apparently very similar, the only thing is you might need to do an OCP mod if you plan on going to higher voltages. I'm not entirely knowledgeable about this, but I've been told that the GT runs on two-phase cooling and the GTS on the three-phase. All this means is that when you do the vmod on a GT, after a certain point, you're going to have to this OCP mod which replaces resistors and is rather complicated. It's meant to protect your card I think if ever the voltage increases higher than its supposed to. This mod is apparently not necessary for a GTS though.

hmmm... well i don't want too much voltage and don't need anything too complicated. i might just forget about it then and live with what i got at the moment. im sure 700/1000 is plenty for me, im not really into benchmarking anyway just want my games to run maxed lol :p

I know i paid too much for my GTS SLI rig, but if what i'm hearing coming down the pipe from Nvidia is true, i wont need to upgrade anytime soon. I need to figure out what the max overclock on the GTS is though. Is there a voltmod for the g92 that isnt permanent in case i ever have to rma the card?

i think merk said his was a pen vmod which would be easier to remove. also what is this information you speak of from nvidia?
 
I know i paid too much for my GTS SLI rig, but if what i'm hearing coming down the pipe from Nvidia is true, i wont need to upgrade anytime soon. I need to figure out what the max overclock on the GTS is though. Is there a voltmod for the g92 that isnt permanent in case i ever have to rma the card?

Seems like most do around 750-800 core, 1800-2ghz shader without touching voltage.

I'll prolly vmod mine but copy what this guy did...he mounted the components to a piece of plexiglass and secured it with neodymium magnets for easy removal....even added a voltmeter!

Hi all!

I've been working on this mod for the past few days, and I thought I would share the results with you :)

This is a 100% removable vMod (yes, no soldering!) :shocked:. There is no screws, no solder and its 100% removable :D .

There is a 500Ohm pot that controls the voltage, a switch that turns the mod on or off and a LCD digital readout of the voltage of the GPU.

The plate is fixed with very strong neodesium magnets that go on the 4 screws of the 8800GTS (so no go if you use another cooler.... for now, until I find a better solution). As such, it requires quite some strength to move the plate, I can install and remove the card from the PC and it will not move, unless you really bang (backspace backspace backspace backspace) jolt it.

Here are a few pictures of the mod :

plate1.jpg

plate2.jpg

plate3.jpg


I have 1 of these made, and it works great :) If you are wondering what the green cable is for, it simply plugs in the motherboard adapter to fetch a negative rail (-12v) I need for the LCD, since there is no negative voltage on the card (well I have not found one yet).

I'll update this tread with a few more details and better pictures of back/from of the plate. And also an action shot.

Right now I have 1 of these made, but I'm planning on probably making a few for my friends, so if anyone would like one at the same time just let me know.

If you have any comments on how to improve it, any help is :welcome:.

I think the LCD would be better off on the top of the card, because its too thick for a SLI setup if all your slots are full, and its harder to read there than on the top of the card. However, in the plate, its much cleaner since all the wires under it are well hidden.

lachinois

Ok, here is an action picture of my card. I got 3 pictures in before my battery died on me. I don't know why my camera is so bad at taking closeup pictures :mad:

In person, I can say it looks much nicer than this though :p:, you can read the voltage, its at 1.368v right now (idle).

plate4.jpg
 
I go there from time to time but I'm more of a lurker. Usually just go there to get info on vmod stuff :)

Anyway I am curious to see what it will do with a vmod as it already does 792/2000/1008 core/shad/mem on stock voltage ...seems 100% stable so far.
 
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