Computer keeps freezing, help please.

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The test file there is a guide with tips for configuring the tests along with fixes seen with different versions of the diagnostic tool. What make and model is the drive there.

Since no results are seen from testing the best way to see if the drive has faults is by using the manufacturer's own drive diagnostic tools like WD"s LifeGuard tools for their drives. Seagate, Maxtor, and other companies each have their own as well.

Whenever you use any diagnostic program you still want it to save a report to a file for later review. Apparently you may have forgotten to check something off like "save report in txt form to ..." when starting it leaving it with no command to follow. Dos type tools can sometimes take an eternity like using an old zero filll tool for seeing a drive wiped. For a small 13gb sized drive it could easily take all day and night practically!
 
The download page for utilities was posted earlier. The page there sees the four different downloads under the diagnostics and for speeding up transfer rates on their sata models.

When mentioning earlier that Windows was on D what is on the C partition? That would be the first partition of the drive.

If you see D while in Windows then something went wrong during the installation. When forgetting to unplug the ide Vista is currently on to install XP onto the first of two sata drives it came up as D there! I had to repair the Vista boot information when having that plugged in by itself after unplugging that drive to see XP installed clean for the then new build.

With the chkdsk and diagnostic tool coming up rather empty handed it may be the way the drive was partitioned seeing Windows installed onto a second rather then usual first primary. Vista is now exclusive to the first when trying to see that go on to a second one while XP was on the first.
 
I was just using the C drive for pagefiling since It's the fastest partition at the front of the HD and to bump the windows install to the D drive to add an extra security level since a lot of virus/spyware try to install to C.
 
I figured you had a custom install there but wanted to check on why you were referring to it as D since you can see in Windows when a bad install takes place. The idea here of course is to narrow down the list to see what the problem actually is.

The list so far includes having reinstalled XP twice following a format of the drive each time. You swapped drives out and can imagine ran memtest or other memory tester to rule that out. The drive being reformatted and swept for "bugs" came up dry there.

Having swapped out supplies you can rule a lack of regulation being seen with just one. You also loaded the factory defaults in the bios and still get nowhere. But that brings up another question in a way.

On one old case here the cpu ran super hot right to the max of 85C there. the cpu fan had quit without a peep. Before that even a pair of Corsair xms series 512s was showing 68 errors with memtest. Those were replaced with 2gb of Kingston ValueRam DDR 400 memory to see 578! huh? Then the battery on the board needing replacement as well as the hsf.

Once a Zalman 7000b went on the old Asus board and things ran cooler suddenly the 200mhz setting for the fsb had to be lowered to 166 in order to see the system run. It was assumed then the cpu was "toast"!

Wrong! After a year or so the case was reassembled to see 200mhz with a fresh battery put in. The two sets of memory were 100% error free when tested on the next board! Before the hsf fan quit and the first battery went lockups, game freezes, sudden restarts, etc. were becoming regular! The board loved batteries apparently!

I thought I would run this one by you there in case you hadn't tried that or perhaps a bios update to see a problem there corrected. With a good cpu in you are running out of hardwares to look at if this is not software related somehow.
 
Ok so you're suggesting I replace the mobo battery to see if that fixes the problem? If I were to do that what kind of battery would I want to buy for it? It's an Abit KV8-Max3 mobo. Will try to find out.
 
Most boards pretty use the 2032 number lithium type watch/calculator type battery found at 24hr. pharmacies as well as in battery sections at stores like Walmart or at the watch/jewelry section. Duracell would be CL 2032 while Eveready Energizer would be CR 2032 for the number.

To see the exact match look at the number on the battery itself when going to remove it or refer to the board's manual. Just don't grab the 2031 that often sits on the rack right next to the 2032s! :p The 2032a are 3v coin sized batteries that go for about $2-$3.
 
Hey so I recieved my new 40gb hd in the mail today. I unplugged my 160gb and set it to slave & plugged in the new hd and set it to master. Then I booted my comp up and went into the BIOS and set it to boot off CD first. After doing that I put in the Windows CD and booted to it and started to install it but I didn't make it very far because after I pressed F8 to agree to the TOS shortly after the computer shutdown and refused to power on again. There is power to the mobo, the mobo power light is on and the POST lights up. Also it did the same thing the first time I went into the BIOS but after I unplugged the power cable and flipped the power switch to off I replugged the cable and flipped the switch back to on and it came on but then shut down during Windows install. Any idea what could be causing this to happen? Thanks for your help.
 
That points at a board problem more then anything there. It could be just a simple need to see the battery replaced unless something is going doa on you.

For recycling a supply however you would shut everything down, turn off the breaker(optional), unplug the ac cord, switch breaker on if off, and then press the power button to see the caps in the supply discharged. But the green led shows that there is plenty of power to work with there.

Since you were in the process of installing Windows on the new drive when it shutdown that shows no cap or other component has completely gone yet and may simply be the battery. A weak battery will cause problems like that.
 
Ok I'm going to buy a new battery for my mobo and see if that helps any. Also now about 20% of the time when I boot the comp up it freezes at the point where it says "verifying dmi pool data" any idea what could be causing that to happen? Also what is a "cap"? Thanks for your continued help with this problem!
 
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