MaV II DARK II
Gears of War King
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Does the lights have to be uv or could it just be cold cathode for uv sata cable to 'work'?
Help picking out my new gaming rig!!!
- Thread starter MaV II DARK II
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The SATA cables, don't have to be at a right angle, but it can be.
I would think the cold cathodes, can set off the UV of the SATA cables. I could be wrong. Wait for someone else to answer this one.
...geez...this thread is so long...but at least you kept all your questions, in one thread, unlike some people.
I would think the cold cathodes, can set off the UV of the SATA cables. I could be wrong. Wait for someone else to answer this one.
...geez...this thread is so long...but at least you kept all your questions, in one thread, unlike some people.
MaV II DARK II
Gears of War King
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- 770
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- Under a rock...
lol... I just want to make sure i get all this right
MaV II DARK II
Gears of War King
- Messages
- 770
- Location
- Under a rock...
I would think this thread could serve for n00bs like me when theyre building a high performance pc
MaV II DARK II
Gears of War King
- Messages
- 770
- Location
- Under a rock...
Is the Corsair 520W PSU sleeved?
EDIT: I know this is a prefference question, but which one would look better in the lian li v1000 case
A corsair 520W or Seagate 550W?
EDIT: I know this is a prefference question, but which one would look better in the lian li v1000 case
A corsair 520W or Seagate 550W?
MaV II DARK II
Gears of War King
- Messages
- 770
- Location
- Under a rock...
From the reviews it says that the seagate 550 has a ton of cables which is a con for me
Sora
Renowned Budgeting Master
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Yes you are right B1 cold cathodes are what will set off the glow of UV reactant cables.
jimmyforeman2
Beta member
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Here is what I recommend for around $2000 (only buy at Newegg!)
COOLER MASTER Stacker 830 (Find me a better performance case…)
OCZ GameXStream 700 watts (It's a classic now!)/or
Corsair 620 watts (its modular, its plain. And it runs an OC'd 8800 GTX!)
EVGA Nforce 680I SLI (WARNING: Has problems supporting RAM above 1000MHZ. BIOS update to fix this is pending…)
Intel Q6600 (3.2GHz is a safe bet. But with the fan/heatsink below, who knows!)
ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 7 Pro (Screw water cooling, this beats most of those more expensive, high maintenance set ups!)
2GB G.Skill 6400 (Dominator performance, without the wallet taking one for the team!)
Evga 8800 GTS 320MB/640MB (I use Evga exclusively. But recently I've heard XFX has been allowing mildly OC'd GPU's keep their lifetime warranty!)
320GB Western Digital Caviar 7200RPM (more silent then Samsung, and stays cool even passively.)
Lite-On 20X Lightscribe (a little loud when reading/writing, but it's fast and it's a steal!)/or
18X Samsung (Hard to find these days, because it's so silent!)
X-Fi XtremeGamer
20 inch SAMSUNG 206BW for 8800 GTS (Best bang for buck monitor)/or
24 inch SAMSUNG 244t-BK for 8800 GTX (best gaming monitor!)
Dual core is faster today. Quad cores will be faster tomorrow. So Quads are the better deal. Quads will just become better with age, as more and more software is written for them. But dual core does OC better, because they produce less heat. So if a high OC is important to you, and you upgrade your CPU often; then go with the dual core. But if you ask me, do yourself a favor. Pay a little bit more for a quad core now, and enjoy much more performance later.
If you want an 8800 GTX take in consideration the size of your case, and power supply. The 8800 GTX's are long cards that don't fit in some mid-towers. You're advised to investigate your case compatibility with this card when choosing. And those 8800 GTX's also suck a lot of juice, especially if you OC them. So if you want to go GTX, I advice a full tower case. And a 700watt power supply minimum (unless it's the Corsair I recommended above.) Plus it's good future proofing to go a little larger then you need.
And please do yourself a favor! Don't bother with the power supply a case gives you. Buy one separately, that's of quality, and from a good rep brand. I wouldn't OC with a power supply less then $100. Yes quality comes at a price! It's one of the most over looked parts of the pc. But it's the part that gives OC'ers the most problems! Trust me I've been there!
When deciding on a graphic card. The most important thing to consider is the resolution on the monitor you're going to be using. The more pixels, the more horsepower you need. Graphic memory is the biggest bottleneck at high resolutions. So the higher your monitor's resolution, the more graphic memory you need. My basic rule of thumb is this: 1680x1050 resolutions and the 8800 GTS represents 0 degree temperature in gaming right now (or the sweet spot if you well.) 1680x1050 and under, go for the 8800 GTS 320MB. For 1680x1050 and higher, go for the 8800 GTS 640MB.
The mobo is your tool for tweaking your hardware. the Nforce 680i's are famous for their plethora of bio options, and tweaking features. Most gaming boutiques use them, and they do for a reason. I know they try to skimp wherever they can, for an extra buck made. But Falcon NW uses an Evga manufactured 680i. And they overclock quads to 3.7Ghz!
As you can see by my monitor selections, I'm a Samsung fan. In fact I use them exclusively (Dell does too!) Those 2 on my list are a good balance between price and performance. But everyone's eyes are different. So the best way to judge is by going to a shop, and seeing them with your own eyes. But whatever you do AVOID the Samsung 245BW at all cost. Like I said before, you get what you pay for!
P.S. You said you wish you could get an Alienware computer. Well I know a few people who bought one, and wish they didn't! Plus those Alienware cases are cheapo's. $400 bucks for a heat trapper made out of wafer thin plastic that was manufactured for 25 bucks! Dell listen to me: PLEASE phase out Alienware, for the good of all gamers out there!
COOLER MASTER Stacker 830 (Find me a better performance case…)
OCZ GameXStream 700 watts (It's a classic now!)/or
Corsair 620 watts (its modular, its plain. And it runs an OC'd 8800 GTX!)
EVGA Nforce 680I SLI (WARNING: Has problems supporting RAM above 1000MHZ. BIOS update to fix this is pending…)
Intel Q6600 (3.2GHz is a safe bet. But with the fan/heatsink below, who knows!)
ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 7 Pro (Screw water cooling, this beats most of those more expensive, high maintenance set ups!)
2GB G.Skill 6400 (Dominator performance, without the wallet taking one for the team!)
Evga 8800 GTS 320MB/640MB (I use Evga exclusively. But recently I've heard XFX has been allowing mildly OC'd GPU's keep their lifetime warranty!)
320GB Western Digital Caviar 7200RPM (more silent then Samsung, and stays cool even passively.)
Lite-On 20X Lightscribe (a little loud when reading/writing, but it's fast and it's a steal!)/or
18X Samsung (Hard to find these days, because it's so silent!)
X-Fi XtremeGamer
20 inch SAMSUNG 206BW for 8800 GTS (Best bang for buck monitor)/or
24 inch SAMSUNG 244t-BK for 8800 GTX (best gaming monitor!)
Dual core is faster today. Quad cores will be faster tomorrow. So Quads are the better deal. Quads will just become better with age, as more and more software is written for them. But dual core does OC better, because they produce less heat. So if a high OC is important to you, and you upgrade your CPU often; then go with the dual core. But if you ask me, do yourself a favor. Pay a little bit more for a quad core now, and enjoy much more performance later.
If you want an 8800 GTX take in consideration the size of your case, and power supply. The 8800 GTX's are long cards that don't fit in some mid-towers. You're advised to investigate your case compatibility with this card when choosing. And those 8800 GTX's also suck a lot of juice, especially if you OC them. So if you want to go GTX, I advice a full tower case. And a 700watt power supply minimum (unless it's the Corsair I recommended above.) Plus it's good future proofing to go a little larger then you need.
And please do yourself a favor! Don't bother with the power supply a case gives you. Buy one separately, that's of quality, and from a good rep brand. I wouldn't OC with a power supply less then $100. Yes quality comes at a price! It's one of the most over looked parts of the pc. But it's the part that gives OC'ers the most problems! Trust me I've been there!
When deciding on a graphic card. The most important thing to consider is the resolution on the monitor you're going to be using. The more pixels, the more horsepower you need. Graphic memory is the biggest bottleneck at high resolutions. So the higher your monitor's resolution, the more graphic memory you need. My basic rule of thumb is this: 1680x1050 resolutions and the 8800 GTS represents 0 degree temperature in gaming right now (or the sweet spot if you well.) 1680x1050 and under, go for the 8800 GTS 320MB. For 1680x1050 and higher, go for the 8800 GTS 640MB.
The mobo is your tool for tweaking your hardware. the Nforce 680i's are famous for their plethora of bio options, and tweaking features. Most gaming boutiques use them, and they do for a reason. I know they try to skimp wherever they can, for an extra buck made. But Falcon NW uses an Evga manufactured 680i. And they overclock quads to 3.7Ghz!
As you can see by my monitor selections, I'm a Samsung fan. In fact I use them exclusively (Dell does too!) Those 2 on my list are a good balance between price and performance. But everyone's eyes are different. So the best way to judge is by going to a shop, and seeing them with your own eyes. But whatever you do AVOID the Samsung 245BW at all cost. Like I said before, you get what you pay for!
P.S. You said you wish you could get an Alienware computer. Well I know a few people who bought one, and wish they didn't! Plus those Alienware cases are cheapo's. $400 bucks for a heat trapper made out of wafer thin plastic that was manufactured for 25 bucks! Dell listen to me: PLEASE phase out Alienware, for the good of all gamers out there!
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